20 Questions with Cary

It’s fun to reflect about that first encounter. Cary Charbonniez is certainly my kitchen cousin and our friendship began like an arranged marriage. Multiple mutual friends encouraged us to meet and our first hello was a phone call so long ago that the baby I was bathing when Cary called is turning 20 next month. We met in person a few years later when she was opening Lola’s, her instantly popular pizza restaurant in Charleston. 

Celebrating my 40th birthday on a shutdown Sunday evening at Lola’s is forever etched in my memory. We had homebrew and live music. For Cary’s 40th, it was a fancy impromptu potluck on my patio, a fete I wrote about for my very first newspaper column. Fast forward, Lola’s changed hands (over to Cary’s brother) and I moved to Louisiana. After some years away from the restaurant world, Cary is making a comeback with her upcoming Coco’s on Hale Street. She was scheduled to open last month, just as the stay at home order was shuttering many businesses. The delayed opening gives her some new perspective and optimism that everything will work out. “I’ll open with a limited menu with things that will travel well for takeout. Although we can’t hug each other right now, I want to create this feeling that our customers are being hugged. I’m excited to open, the space looks awesome!”

As we talked this week about pizza, raising kids and our shared love of cooking, we brainstormed for some collaborative Zoom cooking classes. It will be a blast to catch y’all in the kitchen! Virtual hugs and Happy Cooking!

What’s your 20 minute recipe? Frittata. You can vary the fillings with what you have on hand, I’ll tell you some of my favorite combinations. I make this easily once a week and serve alongside a nice simple green salad.

What’s your favorite city? I would go with maybe St. John in the Virgin Islands. That’s where I dream about living. If I wanted to sound sophisticated I would say Saint-Raphaël, France, it’s a sophisticated version of St. John.

What’s your favorite restaurant in your current city? Chow Thai. I get the same thing each time, Pad Horapa, stir fried vegetables with a delicious brown sauce served with jasmine rice.

Treasured find in the back of your fridge? Homemade chili oil. You can throw it into a stir fry or anything for a little heat.

Who taught you to cook? My mom definitely experimented with recipes. She was a very adventurous cook. My grandmother, too. We sat down to a set table every night, napkin rings and all. We traveled to my grandmother’s on Friday nights for a big meal, she would get her electric carving knife out. We would finish late and have tea. They both taught me the act of communing together over food.

Surf? or Turf? Surf for sure. I’m not a huge meat eater.

What’s on your cooking playlist? I’ve been listening to west coast hip hop.

Coffee, tea, or Kombucha? Coffee for sure. If I could walk around with an IV of it I would. My cup of coffee is like an extension of my arm.

Date night—at home? or out? Home. I’m kind of a homebody. I prefer to hang out on our front porch or in the backyard.

Most stained cookbook? I love Mark Bittman’s How to Cook Everything. You can find almost anything in there. The recipes are really simple.

Indispensable kitchen tool? My chef’s knife. I love my Global knives, I’m a huge Global fan. Or my Microplane.

Staple childhood comfort food? As a kid I was totally obsessed with the frozen Stouffer’s French bread pizzas.

Go-to butter? I always go to Cabot unsalted butter. Coming from my baking days, we learned that unsalted butter is usually fresher and to add the salt ourselves in cooking and baking.

Who would you most like to share a meal with? past, present or fictional? My mom. I have so many questions I’d like to ask her. Having lost my mom as a teen, I would just love to talk with her as an adult. Girlfriend to girlfriend. Talk about parenting and food.

Ideal grilled cheese? Definitely fresh mozzarella with basil pesto and a freshly sliced tomato. I love it on Charleston Bread’s ciabatta.

How do you like your toast? Very dark and crispy.

Favorite pizza topping? I’m a purist believe it or not. I’m a Margherita pizza all the way.

Where would you want to take a cooking class? I love California cuisine. Nothing too pretentious. I’d love to go to California and learn in a small independently owned restaurant. I’d volunteer my services for a week.

What’s your Counter Intelligence cooking tip? Don’t be afraid to use a recipe and don’t get stressed out if you are missing an ingredient. You can usually substitute.

Three things next to your stove? Olive oil, salt and pepper.

Best thing you’ve ever eaten in an airport? I gravitate to a sushi stand. It seems counterintuitive, but I’ve had some good sushi in airports.

Cary leans on frittatas for a quick weeknight meal. This one is Italian sausage, broccoli and parmesan, finished with a shower of fresh basil (from the garden!) For spring, I’m thinking asparagus, leeks and goat cheese.

Cary’s Anytime Frittata

Here’s a little outline for frittata fun: skillet, eggs, spoonful of dairy, cheese, veg’s of your choosing and sausage crumbles if you wish. Finish with herbs and Voila! Lovely for breakfast with a side of fresh fruit, or follow Cary’s lead and serve anytime with a simple green salad.

• 1 tablespoon olive oil

• 3 to 5 cups filling—here I used 4 cups of sautéed broccoli florets and 1 cup cooked crumbled Italian sausage

• 8-10 eggs

• 3 tablespoons full-fat dairy (cream, sour cream, crème fraîche)

• 1 cup grated or crumbled cheese (1/2 cup if using parmesan)

• 1/2 teaspoon salt

• chopped or torn fresh herbs for tasty garnish

HEAT the oven to 350 and place the rack in the middle position.

HEAT the olive oil in a 10-inch skillet over medium heat (if you have a beautifully seasoned cast iron, use this. If you are less confident about your skillet, go with an ovenproof nonstick). Add the raw broccoli florets and toss in the oil. Cover with lid ajar and let sauté/steam for a few minutes while you prepare the egg mixture.

CRACK the eggs into a large bowl and whisk to blend. Add the cream of choice and the cheese. Check on your broccoli—give it a stir. When the broccoli is just tender, stir in the crumbled sausage, if using, and add the salt to the egg mixture, whisk again to blend and pour the egg mixture over the broccoli and sausage in an even layer. Shake the skillet gently to distribute.

PLACE the skillet in the oven and bake the frittata until the center is set but not dry and the edges are light golden brown, about 12-15 minutes.

REMOVE from the oven and let cool briefly before sprinkling with herbs and cutting into wedges for serving. (My C.I. tip: Place a pot holder over the handle so you don’t accidentally grab the oven-hot handle).

Cary’s other suggested combos:

• broccoli rabe, crumbled Italian sausage, parmesan

• spinach, shallots, cherry tomatoes, cheddar, parmesan

• zucchini and cheddar

20 Questions with Gabby

Gabby McGlynn is the consummate hostess, whether she’s teaching a yoga class or entertaining a houseful of friends. She is grace in the kitchen. I met her at a couple of neighborhood gatherings when I first moved to Baton Rouge. She is so enviably fit that I assumed she adhered to a strict food regimen and when I inquired, she answered, “I’ll eat anything. Well I’d rather not have nutria or frog.” It’s fun to see her lighting up the kitchen with a flaming flank steak.

The McGlynn home has a revolving door with four kids and always space for more. They opened their home to neighbors whose home flooded in 2016, housed an NFL football player in the offseason and entertain the entire neighborhood with a skyscraper-sized Spartacus sculpture who is festively dressed for every occasion. He currently wears a surgical mask.

What’s your 20 minute recipe? We eat a lot of pasta! I make a quick tomato sauce with olive oil, onion, garlic and shallot. I love shallots! And I use Alessi crushed tomatoes and a can of whole tomatoes that I puree. I rinse the can with some white wine, whatever’s in the fridge. Fresh cracked pepper and a teaspoon of chicken Better Than Bouillon base. I love to add a drop of fish sauce, it just gives it depth. Without it there’s a little something missing. It’s done in 15 minutes. Right before serving I add tons of fresh parsley and basil. My boys love it on rotini or bowtie pasta.

What’s your favorite city? I LOVE Lake Tahoe. If Danny said we could move anywhere in the US I would pick Lake Tahoe. It’s small town, nature, mountains, the big lake and rivers running through everything and all four seasons. It’s awesome!

What’s your favorite restaurant in your current city? That’s really tough, we never eat out. I do love BLDG5. The food is so fresh and I love the atmosphere. I just feel like I’m tucked away in Austin.

Treasured find in the back of your fridge? Homemade seafood stock in the freezer.

Who taught you to cook? Both of my parents. I grew up in the restaurant business. My dad had three restaurants in New Orleans. I grew up in those kitchens.

What’s your go-to dish for company? Probably Bouillabaisse. It’s visually appealing and it’s just so good! I never make it the same.

Surf? or Turf? Oooohhhh can it be surf AND turf? We do a lot of surf and turf.

What’s on your cooking playlist? A lot of times I put on Amy Winehouse radio and my daughter has a nice playlist on Spotify with some blues and jazz, R&B.

Coffee, tea, or Kombucha? Coffee! Really dark coffee with a splash of Trader Joe’s hazelnut creamer. We have a Nespresso machine, it’s heaven.

Date night—at home? or out? At home, we are homebodies.

Most stained cookbook? Oh I have so many stained ones! Probably Cookery New Orleans Style, one my aunt wrote. It has a lot of recipes from our restaurants.

Indispensable kitchen tool? My little mini food processor-chopper. I couldn’t be without that. And my apron. I can’t cook without my apron.

Staple childhood comfort food? Oh gosh it’s pasta! Gnocchis and pesto, makes my eyes roll. We just had a gnocchi night.

Go-to butter? Kerrygold Irish butter. When my kids see it their eyes get big. It never makes its way to the back of the fridge, it’s always up front.

Who would you most like to share a meal with? past, present or fictional? Maybe Gwyneth Paltrow. I love her cookbook. That’s another one that has torn pages.

Ideal grilled cheese? Alpine multigrain bread (we call it yummy bread) with Havarti cheese and a slice of tomato. Heaven.

Favorite pizza topping? Whipped ricotta. I can’t eat a pizza without it.

Where would you want to take a cooking class? In Italy.

What’s your Counter Intelligence cooking tip? We like to travel the world from our kitchen. The boys will ask, “what country are we going to tonight?” It’s a fun way to explore and introduce new ingredients.

Three things next to your stove? My Google Home, the little mini chopper and my good wooden cutting board.

What’s your favorite sports team? I mean, the Saints! Am I allowed to say anything else?

Just add parmesan! A quick homemade tomato sauce is hard to beat!

Gabby’s Quick Tomato Sauce

a couple of secret ingredients make Gabby’s quick sauce taste like it simmered all day. Keep a batch at the ready to serve with your family’s favorite pasta.

• 2 tablespoons olive oil

• 1 medium onion, finely chopped

• 1 medium shallot, finely chopped

• 3 cloves garlic, minced or crushed

• 1 (28 oz.) can crushed tomatoes

• 1/2 cup white wine

• 1 (28 oz.) can whole tomatoes, pureed*

• a few drops of fish sauce

• 1 teaspoon ‘Better than Bouillion’ chicken stock base

• Salt and cracked black pepper to taste

• heaping handfuls of flat leaf parsley and fresh basil, chopped

Before you chop a thing, heat the olive oil in a wide bottomed sauté pan or preferably a stockpot (the deeper pot allows for some aggressive simmering and less mess) over medium-low heat.

ADD the onion to the hot oil, increase the heat to medium and toss to coat. When the onion just begins to soften, add the shallot, then the garlic. These ingredients will be singing in the hot oil. When you feel tempted to taste a spoonful of this, add the full can of crushed tomatoes and crank the heat a bit. You want to have a lava-like soft boil. Rinse out this can with the wine and add it to the pot.

STIR in the puréed whole tomatoes (*if you have an immersion blender, tip the juice from the whole tomatoes into the simmering sauce, then quick blend the tomatoes right in the can with the immersion blender. Alternatively you can hand crush them or blitz them in batches in your mini chopper or even use a second can of crushed tomatoes. The puréed whole tomatoes add a nice texture.)

ADD a few drops of fish sauce, up to a teaspoon (fish sauce = pantry staple) and the chicken stock base. Give it a good stir and taste.

SEASON with salt and lots of cracked black pepper as desired. Add the fresh herbs and you are ready to spoon this sauce over your freshly cooked pasta. Break out your parmesan grater!

Depending on your sauce level preference, you will likely have some extra for later. When the sauce is cool, spoon it into one or two cup containers and refrigerate for up to a week or freeze for up to six months. Don’t forget to label with the contents and date, could become a treasured find in your fridge or freezer!

20 Questions with Adam

One of the first gems I discovered when I moved to Charleston, West Virginia was Mountain Stage. I was at the live show in 2011 when the show’s co-founder and executive producer, Andy Ridenour, passed the baton to Adam Harris who has been producing the show ever since. I met Adam a few years later when he attended a cooking demonstration I was doing at Capitol Market. We forged our friendship over music and cooking, occasionally bringing some of the Mountain Stage production staff to Darin Fisher Designer Kitchens for some day-after-the-show cooking therapy.

When Adam brought some fresh ramps back to Charleston from his family’s property in Greenbrier County, we folded the seasonal allium into biscuits. When he and Trish got married, I was thrilled to be invited to contribute to their dessert display. His knowledge of musicians, NPR stations across the nation, the Mountain Stage roster over the decades, and World Wrestling Entertainment is nothing short of encyclopedic. If I could transport three things from Charleston to my new home in Louisiana, it would be Mountain Stage, Charleston Bread, and Ellen’s Ice Cream.

What’s your 20 minute recipe? I’ve been trying to hone my timing for things like this. You know, 30 minute meal is the goal. I try to do my, how do you say it? Mise en place, get all my ingredients ready. Cajun chicken pasta is a good one, it’s pretty simple. We also do a salmon that’s really good, and fast. We do asparagus and top it with a lot of parmesan cheese. My thing has been parmesan cheese. I keep a block handy.

What’s your favorite city? I would probably have to say Chicago. That’s where my wife is from. Lots of culinary diversity. We love a Polish buffet, and there’s a place that does an upside down pizza, like a potpie but pizza. Really I’m a connoisseur of Charleston. I can make anybody feel like a local here. 

What’s your favorite restaurant in your current city? Oh gosh, I hate to single one out. I like Big Joe’s for bar food. I’m not gonna order a burger anywhere else, and they have award winning mac and cheese. I like Kobe for ramen.

Treasured find in the back of your fridge? I have some trout from Greenbrier County in my freezer. I’ve learned to use mustard in just about everything. Dressings, marinades, I even coat chicken nuggets in it before the breading. We have three mustards going. It used to be barbecue sauce, now we’re into mustards.

Who taught you to cook? Can I say April Hamilton? Legitimately, you opened my eyes at the cooking demonstration at the Capitol Market. We make that pineapple fried rice all the time. Who knew it was so easy to make fried rice? My mother did a lot of cooking, but I wasn’t observing that much. My dad was a beef farmer. We ate a LOT of beef. I was a freshman in college before I realized not a lot of people have a freezer full of beef! In college I survived on making the same stuff all the time. Ramen, frozen chicken Cordon Bleu, curly fries. I look back on it now and think, ‘how boring!’

What’s your go-to dish for company? For summer cookouts and street festivals, I always bring my cucumber sandwiches. They are so tasty and refreshing! I have a good recipe. Can that be my 20 minute recipe? You can definitely make them ahead so the flavors get acquainted.

Surf? or Turf? If I had to pick, I’d pick turf since my dad was a beef guy. It’s hard to beat the combo of the two.

What’s on your cooking playlist? We’re listening to NPR, All Things Considered or Marketplace. We listen to less music at home than you would think. Nothing too distracting, maybe some jazz. Now if we’re outside grilling, we like some good country, you know, Alan Jackson, Pam Tillis -- I love her -- or the great Kathy Mattea.

Coffee, tea, or Kombucha? Yes to the first two and absolutely NOT to the third one. The labels are so promising and purifying, but no offense, I think it’s an acquired taste. My first taste was not pleasant!

Date night—at home? or out? Now there’s no date nights out anywhere. Really we’re more likely to go to the Fish Market or get some steaks and cook at home. If we are out downtown, we might hop around to a few spots and get some snacks.

Most stained cookbook? Definitely April’s Counter Intelligence. It opens right up to the biscuits page. We print a lot of recipes off the internet and keep a big binder going. There’s a lot of stained pages in there, too.

Indispensable kitchen tool? I use my cheese grater all the time. I have a cool one with two different sides, one for my parmesan and one for grating for my pimiento cheese.

Staple childhood comfort food? I’ve got a good one. My grandmother coated her bacon in flour before cooking it. My wife calls it farm bacon. You wet it first with water to get the flour to stick, then cook it on low in a cast iron skillet until it gets a golden brown crust. It has a nice sweet taste. Try it you will LOVE it! It’s not something you should eat every day. It’s the ultimate comfort food.

Who would you most like to share a meal with? past, present or fictional? WOW! That’s such a toughie. Do I get to cook the meal with the person? Dinner with Chuck Prophet, the San Francisco rock n roller. He was on the first Mountain Stage show that I interned. February 5, 2006. He’s the first person I saw interact with our band. Watching the process was WOW! Now he has a video with Southwest Airlines (two free bags!) where he’s making guacamole and limeade in San Francisco with his band. There’s always Vince McMahon from WWE. I’d love to share a T-bone with him. I could go on and on. The best way I could show love to anyone is through sharing a meal.

Ideal grilled cheese? Hmmmm, wow, one of the things I made growing up. I like it classic, with a slice of tomato is hard to beat. And with tomato soup of course. I had an experience with a grilled cheese sandwich in Scotland, the first time I had it with tomato.

Favorite pizza topping? If I had to pick one, definitely banana peppers. Pepperoni, sausage, banana peppers, that’s a perfect pizza to me.

Where would you want to take a cooking class? A bread baking class in northern Minnesota, at the North House Folk School in Grand Marais. That’s where it’s at!

What’s your Counter Intelligence cooking tip? Experiment. No sense in sticking to a recipe. If you don’t have an ingredient, substitute!

Three things next to your stove? Pasta strainer, cutting boards, a big container of black pepper. I use it on everything! I always have some citrus close by, too.

What’s your favorite sports team? My favorite professional wrestler is Chris Jericho from Manitoba. He wrestled in Beckley, West Virginia when I was about 10 years old. It was his first job in America. He’s reinvented himself numerous times. He is the GOAT! I’ve always had a special admiration for him. I also love the West Virginia Power.

Adam’s cucumber sandwiches, perfect for company or pack them up for a picnic. Ready in 20 minutes with extra points if you make them ahead.

Adam’s Cucumber Sandwiches

Follow Adam’s lead: first a whisper of soft butter on the bread which keeps the cucumbers from weeping into the bread, and plenty of black pepper. This one is so crucial he texted me to remind me: Don’t forget the black pepper! He also said “the KEY is you gotta mash it down with your hands and cut into 2 bite pieces”

• 12 slices thin sliced white bread (Charleston friends: Go with the Blue Monday loaf at Charleston Bread)

• soft butter, about 2 tablespoons

• 2 tablespoons mayonnaise

• 1 teaspoon mustard

• 2 Tablespoons feta cheese crumbles

• Black pepper

• 2 cucumbers, peeled in stripes to make it ‘fancy’ and thinly sliced

• 1 carrot, peeled, then finely cut into julienne or grated

LAY out the sliced bread on a large cutting board. Spread each with a whisper of butter on the side facing up.

MAKE the spread by combining the mayonnaise, mustard and feta in a small bowl and mixing to mash the feta a bit. Divide this spread evenly on top of the buttered bread slices, then liberally sprinkle with pepper.

TOP half of the bread slices with cucumber and carrot, then cover with the other spread-topped bread slices.

MASH the top of each sandwich gently with your hand while you cut the sandwich into 2-bite pieces using a bread knife.

PACK the tiny sandwiches into an airtight container and refrigerate overnight, if desired. Keep them in a cooler for your next picnic, or serve them with a spot of tea on the front porch.

20 Questions with Kristin

Kristin Perers and I grew up in the same tiny Florida beach town, yet we didn’t meet until two springs ago, all the way across the pond where she hosted my family for dinner in her East London studio. We were in London visiting our daughter Sara, and Kristin’s brother Rob made the introduction. “Come round to mine,” she said, and our family of five enjoyed a feast fit for royalty in Kristin’s production studio: platters of cured meats and cheeses, a show-stopping phyllo and spinach pie, a salad of market greens freshly dressed, all accompanied by easy conversation about life, London, and our shared hometown.

A professional photographer, Kristin wears tons of hats, always happy painting, drawing, cooking, sewing, gardening. The cookbooks in Kristin’s portfolio bring natural beauty to food art. Working as a photographer in London has been a winding path for her as she describes, “It’s interesting the way my path led me to more and more food photography. In London it’s such a food culture. Everyone I work with is very passionate about where their food comes from. I’m really interested in the whole food system and I have a great interest in nature. Basically food is nature on a plate.” The discussion led me over to Books for Cooks in Notting Hill where I purchased two cookbooks featuring her gorgeous work.

What’s your 20 minute recipe? Something I made up. It’s super easy. I’m trying to go vegetarian as much as possible and I’ve been eating roasted vegetables every night. I serve them with a tahini dressing that has yogurt, lime, honey, garlic, salt and pepper. Maybe balsamic, maybe mustard. Something about that combination. I got the juiciest, tangiest limes at the produce shop. It’s acid, fat, and nuts. Throw it over grilled or roasted vegetables, whatever you’ve got. In lockdown I’ve been making this almost every night, variations on a theme and it’s helped me make friends with my electric oven.

What’s your favorite city? Right now it would have to be London. it’s a fascinating city with so many layers of history. I’m reading The Mirror and the Light, Hilary Mantel’s novel in her Booker Prize winning trilogy, it’s a dive into London’s history.

What’s your favorite restaurant in your current city? I LOVE the gluten-free pizza at Oceanside Pizza on Ocean Avenue. The crust is really good and crispy.

Treasured find in the back of your fridge? You know what I’ve just gotten really excited about and I used to be really snobby about is garlic in a jar from Goya. This makes lockdown! Some people are hoarding TP, I’m hoarding garlic. I have three jars.

Who taught you to cook? The person who influenced me most is my stepmom Susan. She’s of Lebanese descent and introduced me to a lot of different ingredients. Also in London, everybody has dinner parties and as a young bride I learned to cook.

What’s your go-to dish for company? My go-to is my phyllo spinach pie! When I first moved to London, I saw a box of frozen phyllo pastry and the recipe was on the box. It’s nice, you can make it beforehand. Phyllo is so beautiful, it makes a splash. I love the moment of bringing something to the table and people go, “oh how did you do this?!” The best part of cooking is the praise.

What’s on your cooking playlist? I have different things. I have been playing a lot of Mary Chapin Carpenter. Spotify is so great! There’s even a playlist that if you start off with Mary Chapin Carpenter, it DJ’s for you. I love her music. I don’t want too dramatic or dance-y. It grounds you and lulls you along.

Coffee, tea, or Kombucha? All of the above! I love all of them. I start with tea in the morning and move to coffee, then Kombucha in the afternoon.

Date night—at home? or out? We usually have date night out. I do a lot of cooking at home, too. My husband is a priest and Saturday nights he’s working on his sermons at the dining room table while I’m cooking right there in the kitchen. It’s such a nice evening!

Most stained cookbook? Joy of Cooking! Which my mom gave to me when I was 18 and moved to New York City.

Indispensable kitchen tool? I love two of my husband’s vintage kitchen tools, a beautiful thin-edged spatula and an old fashioned rotary crank parmesan cheese grater. It makes the BEST grated parmesan.

Staple childhood comfort food? Chocolate brownies from a box. I always have a box on hand for emergencies. I have a box here!

Who would you most like to share a meal with? past, present or fictional? I would love to share a meal with President Obama. He would be fun and interesting. I would LOVE to know what he’s thinking right now! I’d love to know what he and Michelle talk about. If Michelle could come along that would be all the better.

Ideal grilled cheese? You have to be eating it at the counter of a New York coffee shop. Swiss, bacon on rye, maybe a slice of tomato. Sliced diagonally and ketchup on the side.

Favorite pizza topping? I love feta and anchovies.

Where would you want to take a cooking class? So many places! I was in Sicily last year, maybe I’d like to go there. I have a good friend who lives there. She’s an amazing chef, took us to all the food markets. Cooking is such a part of their culture.

What’s your Counter Intelligence cooking tip? I’m a really simple cook. Going back to tools, one thing I’ve seen a lot of chefs I work with use is a mandoline. I really love it for making coleslaw and thinly slicing potatoes.

Three things next to your stove? Olive oil, avocado oil, coconut oil. I got really influenced by Samin Nosrat and her book Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat. She really got me thinking about the different types of fats and also learning how necessary fats are in your diet.

What’s your favorite sports team? I like watching the tournaments. My boys are Man U supporters and my husband is a Tottenham Spurs supporter. I could never choose one!

Do you have a wellness tip you’d like to share? I’m really into probiotics. I eat yogurts and kefirs with live cultures. It’s really important for your digestion. I also love cultured foods and fermented vegetables like sauerkraut and kimchi to keep your gut healthy.

As we wrapped up our conversation, Kristin said, “I want to change where I want to learn to cook. I want to come to your kitchen and learn southern cooking.” It’s a date! Two creatives from Melbourne Beach, Florida cooking up some fun in my south Louisiana kitchen.

Kristin’s roasted vegetables with tahini dressing — edible art covering the acid, fat, nuts and probiotics bases. Photo credit: Kristin Perers

Tahini Dressing

with a shout out to the ladies at Soom, makers of the best tahini! I ordered a 6-jar case and it feels like I’m sitting on gold.

Less of a recipe and more of a creative blend that matches the season. Grill or roast a palette of vegetables and dress to your taste. Per Kristin’s description: No specific measurements … start with a small tablespoon of tahini and twice that of yogurt …add olive oil if the yogurt is too thick….  then the acid (lime) to taste. Chili flakes for a little heat… mustard or balsamic to suit your vegetable selection.

Play around and enjoy!

20 Questions with Reilly

Reilly Hamilton is my second born daughter. When she became a big sister at the age of 4, she announced, “I can’t believe we have a baby!” She continues this fondness for babies with regular FaceTime sessions with her cousins’ babies and toddlers. She learned her way around the kitchen from the get-go and once accompanied me, in her monogrammed chef’s whites and houndstooth pants, on Good Morning West Virginia where we made her Dressed in the Bowl Caesar Salad. So many years later, this recipe is still a family favorite.

If you made Reilly’s name into an acrostic poem, the E would certainly be Enthusiastic! Her Aunt Maura always said, “no one’s more psyched than Reilly!” a point that’s hard to argue. When she chose to leave West Virginia for college, we were thrilled she landed at the University of Kentucky and got to visit her often. Since we moved to Louisiana during her college years, she requested a crawfish boil for her graduation celebration. We packed up cases of fresh crawfish like luggage and boiled them up with her friends in the backyard of their rental house, such a fun flashback!

What’s your 20 minute recipe? Mediterranean chicken. It’s so simple and so flavorful! You can change it up, adding sliced mushrooms or artichoke hearts. 

What’s your favorite city? Valencia, Spain. I spent a semester there my junior year. I still keep in touch with my host family and have been back to visit them. The people are so friendly and the beaches are beautiful. The architecture is really cool, too.

What’s your favorite restaurant in your current city? Tsunami in downtown Baton Rouge. I love their sushi and the view at sunset is great.

Treasured find in the back of your fridge? Pickled green beans, the ones from Cajun Chef.

Who taught you to cook? You did. For my ninth birthday I asked for a chef’s outfit with my name on it so I could be like you. 

Surf? or Turf? Turf. With a side of surf.

What’s on your cooking playlist? Anything from Leon Bridges to The Rolling Stones.

Coffee, tea, or Kombucha? TEA! Unsweetened. Iced. Sometimes with a splash of peach syrup.

Dinner with friends—at home? or out? Out. In New York you’ll never run out of amazing restaurants.

Most stained cookbook? Nothing Fancy, Alison Roman’s newest book. She makes having people over for dinner so approachable.

Indispensable kitchen tool? Silicone spatula.

Staple childhood comfort food? Filet. I have always loved it.

Who would you most like to share a meal with? past, present or fictional? Poppa Tom. We would laugh the whole time and both have seconds. Ice cream for dessert.

Best thing you’ve ever eaten in an airport? Probably Shake Shack. Don’t forget to ask for pickles.

Ideal grilled cheese? White bread with Kraft American singles, cut diagonally.

How do you like your toast? Golden brown with butter and lots of flaky sea salt.

Favorite pizza topping? All of them.

Where would you want to take a cooking class? In Italy.

What’s your Counter Intelligence cooking tip? Always make your own salad dressing.

What’s your favorite sports team? Kentucky Wildcats.

Mediterranean chicken is quick enough for a weeknight and also impressive for weekend guests. Boneless chicken is seasoned, quick-browned, then baked in a HOT oven with grape tomatoes, olives and capers which make a tasty sauce in minutes.

Mediterranean Chicken

Brown some boneless chicken in an ovenproof skillet, add grape or cherry tomatoes, olives and capers and the sauce makes itself while you put on some couscous and toss a salad.

• 4 4to5 ounce boneless, skinless chicken breasts

• salt & pepper

• 2 tablespoons olive oil

• 1 pint grape or cherry tomatoes

• 3 or 4 small garlic cloves, lightly smashed with the flat of a knife and peeled

• 1/2 cup pitted kalamata olives, or more if you like

• 2 to 3 tablespoons capers

• about a cup of sliced mushrooms or artichoke hearts, optional

HEAT the oven to 450.

SPRINKLE the top side (where the skin used to be) of the chicken with a good bit of salt and pepper. Note: if your chicken breasts are larger than 5 ounces, cut them into 2 or 3 cutlets each.

HEAT the olive oil in a 12-inch ovenproof skillet. (I prefer stainless steel which doesn’t react with the acidic sauce). Lay the chicken, seasoned side down, in a single layer in the skillet. Season this second side of the chicken with salt and pepper. When the chicken is golden and releases from the skillet when you coax it with tongs, turn them over.

ADD the tomatoes, garlic, olives, capers and optional mushrooms/artichokes to the skillet and shake to combine.

PLACE the skillet in the hot oven and set your timer for 15 minutes. Put on some couscous and toss a salad. Remove the skillet from the oven, covering the handle of the skillet with an oven mitt or pot holder. The tomatoes will be juicy and blistered and chicken cooked through.

SERVE in pasta bowls: a piece of chicken, a scoop of juicy tomatoes and a spoonful of couscous.

20 Questions with Aimee

Laughter is the best medicine and I can always count on Aimee Henry, a chef and registered dietitian in Denver, to get me giggling. We grew up together in a place we call paradise: Melbourne Beach, Florida. When we weren’t getting sunburned, we were in one of our kitchens making some sort of delicious mess. A favorite elementary school cooking activity was jazzing up frozen pizzas with fresh ingredients and singing our own advertisement jingles.

Though a 1,200 mile diagonal line separates us now, we can pick up easily with a phone call, some that go on for hours. One such chat led to me asking Aimee to contribute some nutrition tips to my cookbook. Her guidance is woven throughout. I love visiting her in Denver and I am ready to go the minute the coast is clear. We still catch up in our hometown which includes long walks on the beach and maybe a slice of pizza at the Boardwalk.

What’s your 20 minute recipe? It might be too common, shrimp tacos? Or I have a spicy Thai shrimp soup that’s quick and dirty. Just a few ingredients and it’s a crowd pleaser. I love these flavors together. You have to have coconut milk on hand. This one’s from an old Southern Living cooking school I went to at the Melbourne Auditorium in the 90’s. I’ve changed it up a bit, adding the shrimp at the very end and cilantro and green onion.

What’s your favorite city? Malaga, Spain. Got the local scoop and had the BEST recommendations of where to eat. The people were super friendly, really the most welcoming locals. I’ll never forget the grilled artichokes in Malaga.

What’s your favorite restaurant in your current city? Can I say two? Uncle 2.0, a homemade ramen place. It’s so good! And the Sushi Den, it’s a stand by.

Treasured find in the back of your fridge? This is easy! I just cleaned out my fridge. Iowa Country Dill Mustard. I bought it in Iowa at the farmer’s market. It’s super vinegary. I also found a bottle of sake, chilled, which was a fun find.

Who taught you to cook? My mother first. She inspired me to cook and continue cooking. Then I got my culinary training, a 6-month program in Boulder, Colorado with the final month in Provence, France. First time I used a chef’s knife, wore a white jacket with droopy sleeves, cooking at altitude, French cuisine. What am I doing here? Then I relied on my palate.

What’s your go-to dish for company? Oooohhh depends on the season. Usually something on the grill, chicken or fish, and a salad or two. Burrata with good tomato and basil in the summer, extra virgin olive oil, balsamic vinegar, cracked black pepper and coarse salt. I like veggie kabobs. I’m a kabobber. You can do them ahead of time and then you don’t have to think about it. In the winter, Beef Bourguignon with potato gratin.

What’s on your cooking playlist? I like the Talking Heads station on my Sonos player. It’s a really good station.

Coffee, tea, or Kombucha? Tea without question. English breakfast with a little bit of sugar or honey. OK it’s usually sugar and half and half. I might do a decaf cappuccino with dessert. I love coffee ice cream and a good affogato. I just like to say it.

Date night—at home? or out? Date night out. Definitely out. Well, it depends on where I am in the relationship.

Most stained cookbook? Well, I did not stain it, it is stained from my mother. It’s the Betty Crocker cookbook. Probably my go-to is the New York Times Craig Claiborne book.

Indispensable kitchen tool? My large Boos Block cutting board and an 8-inch chef’s knife. I’m a firm believer in the larger the cutting board the better, and lots of prep bowls.

Staple childhood comfort food? That’s a hard one! Grilled cheese is boring. I’ll say my mom’s homemade bagels. We didn’t have bagels in Melbourne Beach, Florida. You had to go down to South Florida to get bagels, so my mom learned to make them.

Who would you most like to share a meal with? past, present or fictional? A meal with my mom and dad.

Surf? or Turf? Surf for sure. Shellfish in particular, crab and scallops. Not those teeny little ones.

Ideal grilled cheese? Gruyere on rosemary sourdough bread. Sometimes I’ll slice a big dill pickle on there, or have a pickle on the side.

Favorite pizza topping? Mushroom and onion, or spinach, mushroom and onion. I put dollops of ricotta on halfway through and top with arugula at the end.

Where would you want to take a cooking class? I think it would be fun to do a class in Italy. Tuscany. That whole experience in France was phenomenal.

What’s your Counter Intelligence cooking tip? I have two. Enhance your knife skills and get comfortable. It’s nothing but a thing! And grow your own fresh herbs. My chives are coming up and I’m thrilled. The oregano and mint are coming soon.

Three things next to your stove? There’s more than three, there’s so much! I have that salt from you, my dear. Peppermill, crushed red pepper. On the other side of the stove I have olive oil, butter, shallots and garlic. There’s a lot going on.

What’s your favorite sports team? That’s so easy! Clemson Tigers. Otherwise I watch golf.

Do you have a wellness tip you’d like to share? Nourish your body, get some sunshine and give yourself some grace if you find yourself finishing off a pint of ice cream.

As we were wrapping up, Aimee said “you didn’t ask me the pie question” (one I had asked my mom in her recent interview). “I was ready for it. I was gonna say it’s more about crumbles, crisps and cobblers. Yes.”

Aimee’s Spicy Thai Shrimp Soup is the perfect balance of spice and creamy coconut, guaranteed to chase the blues away.

Spicy Thai Shrimp Soup

Homemade soups are their very best when made with homemade stock. Barring that, Aimee suggests choosing low or no-salt added store-bought broth. Her version calls for fresh ginger and crushed red pepper. Since I was out of ginger, I revised by subbing a heaping tablespoon of red curry paste from my pantry. Worked like a charm.

• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil

• 1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger

• 1/2 to 1 teaspoon crushed red pepper

• 1 small onion, chopped

• 8 ounces fresh mushrooms, sliced (I used shiitakes)

• salt to taste, if using unsalted broth

• 5 cups chicken stock

• 1 (13.5 ounce) can coconut milk

• 1/3 cup uncooked long-grain rice

• 1 pound medium shrimp, peeled and deveined

• 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice, plus lime wedges for serving

• handful each of chopped green onions and cilantro

HEAT the oil in a medium stockpot over medium heat and add the ginger and crushed red pepper (or red curry paste if using, see note) and stir for one minute. Add the onion and cook another minute, then add the mushrooms, stirring just until they begin to wilt, two minutes or so. Season with salt (I used about a teaspoon since my stock was unsalted).

ADD the stock or broth, coconut milk and rice and stir. Bring to a gentle boil, then reduce heat to medium low and cook, stirring occasionally for 15 minutes. The rice should be just tender.

STIR in the shrimp and cook just until shrimp turn pink. Add the lime juice, green onions and cilantro.

LADLE the soup into bowls (6 good sized servings) and serve with lime wedges.

20 Questions with Lance

Lance Nacio launched Anna Marie Shrimp, his commercial fishing business, in 1997. His acclaim stretches far beyond Louisiana with television appearances on The Food Network, CNN’s Eatocracy, and the TODAY Show with Al Roker. Partnerships with Rouses Supermarkets and Market Umbrella have helped him weather some extremely difficult times and he is constantly innovating. He started selling his catch at a pop up market in Baton Rouge in 2003 which is where I discovered his celebrated Louisiana shrimp and fish. I caught up with him recently at his booth at Red Stick Farmer’s Market, the week before the market switched from walk up service to drive through.

My freezer is always stocked with one pound packages of Lance’s peeled and deveined shrimp. I made his suggested Grilled Shrimp Salad to rave reviews from my family and will run through the ‘Bubba Gump’ ideas to keep these delicious shrimp in regular rotation in my kitchen. Taking a page from his playlist, I cued up some Guns ‘N Roses for this writing session.

What’s your 20 minute recipe? Grilled shrimp salad. It’s quick and easy. You can do like Bubba Gump and do all the things with shrimp! It’s so versatile.

What’s your favorite city? I would have to say it’s New Orleans. It’s so rich with food and culture. There is so much history.

What’s your favorite restaurant in your current city? For the ultimate food experience, go to New Orleans. Big Al’s or Spahr’s Seafood in Des Allemands. It’s the catfish capital of the world!. They have THE BEST catfish platter! It’s a really nice place for a sit down authentic Cajun dinner. You can see pelicans, egrets, seagulls and gators right outside the window.

Treasured find in the back of your fridge? Not in the fridge, it’s in my freezer. Squid, I’m fixing some now. It came from my boat, Anna Marie.

Who taught you to cook? My mom, and one of my first jobs was as a cook on a tugboat. I learned from some tough Cajuns.

What’s your go-to dish for company? Seafood boil. It’s a community meal. Newspapers out and everyone sits down and enjoys.

What’s on your cooking playlist? I like 80’s rock. Classic rock is my go-to.

Coffee, tea, or Kombucha? Coffee every morning, two cups of dark roast from Community Coffee.

Date night—at home? or out? Preferably at home.

Indispensable kitchen tool? Black iron skillet or pot.

Staple childhood comfort food? We call it sticky chicken. It’s an excellent meal. Seasoned with salt and pepper and browned in pork fat. We ate that growing up a lot.

Ideal grilled cheese? At home I make it on Evangeline bread with a good thick slice of cheddar.

Who would you most like to share a meal with? past, present or fictional? Leah Chase. I have shared a few meals with her, what an awesome experience! She called me the shrimp man. I’d like to do that again.

Best thing you’ve ever eaten in an airport? That’s a tough one! I’ve been through a lot of airports, the food is not really up to par.

Favorite pizza topping? I like a lot of things on pizza. Mushrooms, Italian sausage, Canadian bacon, onions. I don’t put seafood on pizza.

Where would you want to take a cooking class? Probably at Nicholl’s. They have some really good chefs who volunteer there.

What’s your Counter Intelligence cooking tip? Use leftover bacon grease to start any meal.

Three things next to your stove? A container containing bacon grease, Tony Chachere’s, garlic powder.

What’s your favorite sports team? Saints of course.

Favorite seafood dish? Shrimp and grits. Get it at GW Fins.

Post-crisis silver lining? People are going to be more conscious of where their food comes from. I think It’s gonna be better and stronger when we get through this.

Salad + Shrimp = quick, delicious, nutritious. This one is Lance’s version, with avocado, beets, carrots, and tomatoes, dressed with a ‘shaker jar’ lemon vinaigrette. Freestyle it your way with your market haul. Or wrap the grilled shrimp in tortillas for shrimp tacos

Grilled Shrimp

A sprinkle of seasoning and a few minutes on the grill turn Anna Marie Shrimp into the star of a quick weeknight meal.

• 1 pound large peeled and deveined shrimp

• 2 teaspoons Tony Chachere’s Creole seasoning

• a swipe of canola oil for the grill

HEAT your grill to medium, about 400 degrees, or a grill pan over medium high flame. Using a heat-proof brush, lightly oil the grill grate of the grill pan with a little canola oil.

SEASON the shrimp while the grill gets hot: Sprinkle both sides of the shrimp with Tony’s (or your favorite seasoning blend).

COOK until the underside turns pink, then turn to cook the second side. Remove from the grill to a clean platter when the inside just turns opaque. This happens fast, about 4 to 5 minutes total. A perfectly grilled shrimp just snaps on the outside with a delicate charred crust and is juicy inside.

20 Questions with Helen

My mom Helen has magical powers. I realized this when I was tiny, wandering off to bed after family dinner and awaking to a world of intricate baked goods, hand-lettered posters or beaded wedding gowns. No matter the occasion, my mom was creating something special for it, into the wee hours of post-midnight. With five kids and a husband, birthdays came around quickly, always celebrated with fanfare and homemade cake. I can hear the mixer spinning and see her piping a sweet message with her retro metal icing set.

A couple of hurricane seasons ago, as Irma threatened my family and hometown on the east coast of central Florida, my sister mused, “I wish I could put her on a plane to stay with you.” and so it was! With a bit of arm twisting, a few days after mom’s 88th birthday, she boarded a direct flight from Orlando to New Orleans. I asked what she would like for dinner when she arrived. She didn’t miss a beat: “Duck. Louisiana style.” The month she stayed with us is time I will treasure forever! We cooked nonstop.

Last year we moved her to assisted living after a couple of serious health scares. She turned 90 in August and is thriving in her new environment. “I really like it here!” she sings. Truly music to my ears. Her only lament is that she can no longer cook. I had a great phone call with her this week to flashback on her food memories.

What’s your 20 minute recipe? Borscht! Cold beet soup. It’s very nice in the summer, so refreshing. The beauty of it is that it’s fast, not much preparation. Just chill a can of beets and a can of beef consommé. Pour them both into the blender and blend until smooth. Add the juice of half a lime, pour it into bowls and eat it! Some like to add sour cream.

What’s your favorite city? Melbourne Beach, Florida. It has a nice pier on the river. One of the first restaurants, Poor Richard’s, was so successful. It started out as just a collection of garage sale finds. Djon’s is there now.

What’s your favorite restaurant in your current city? I really like the Fish House. They have fried oysters and mountains of shrimp. It’s kind of dilapidated from the front and that’s it’s charm. And the Yellow Dog is excellent for a special occasion.

Treasured find in the back of your fridge? My sister in law left me a pound of Irish butter. What an unexpected treat!

Who taught you to cook? My mother was a very good cook. We also had cooks in our home and my sister and I always hung around the kitchen watching them. I never did take Home-Ec. I’ve learned a lot by doing. My first successful cake was when I was 12. I didn’t get into pies until later after I watched a woman from the Alabama Extension Service making a pie in a store window. I was just passing by as she was crimping her crust and I said, “I think I can do that!” since my success with my cake.

How many pies have you baked? Two a week for 50 years sounds about right, and maybe one a week for ten years after that. You do the math! (my calculation says 5,720).

What’s your go-to dish for company? Fried chicken. I think it’s what people like the most, for sure! Some of the other things you couldn’t be sure.

Coffee, tea, or Kombucha? I don’t know what Kombucha is. Back in the day I liked coffee.

Surf? or Turf? I would rather have the surf. I like shellfish. I LOVE crab! It’s one of my favorites.

Most stained cookbook? Probably The Joy of Cooking. It’s like an encyclopedia, you could find anything in there.

Indispensable kitchen tool? My mixer!!

Staple childhood comfort food? Dill pickles. Whole ones with a glass of milk.

Who would you most like to share a meal with? past, present or fictional? I think I’d like to share a meal with your dad.

Best thing you’ve ever eaten in an airport? I got some sushi that was really good, probably the Atlanta airport.

Ideal grilled cheese? Aged cheddar, thicker than normal sliced bread and I’d put in a slice of tomato and grill it with butter. Not TOO much butter so it’s not too messy on your hands when you eat it. And that’s it!

Favorite pizza topping? I like pepperoni, mushrooms, green peppers, different variety of cheeses and chopped anchovies. Nestle them down in the cheese so they don’t get dried out.

Where would you want to take a cooking class? I’ve had some excellent food in New Orleans over the years. I’d like to take a cooking class there.

What’s your favorite community service cooking memory? When I was teaching confirmation classes at the church, our project was to cook and serve at Daily Bread Kitchen. Years later some of the patrons would come back with big donations as a thank you for helping them when they needed it.

What’s your Counter Intelligence cooking tip? I like the idea of using older eggs for hard boiling. If you salt the water and take the pan off the heat after the water boils, let them sit for 12 minutes, it makes them easier to peel. Another one is when you do a pie, butter the surface of the dough to seal it off from the filling so the crust doesn’t get soggy.

What’s your favorite sports team? My favorite to watch is the ice skating competitions.

Ideal indeed! Grilled aged cheddar on thick-sliced bread with tomato. Serve with slices of Florida sunshine:)

Helen’s Grilled Cheese

Dear Reader: This sandwich is at the top of my list of childhood comfort foods. Full disclosure, beets are a hard no for me so I’m choosing to highlight the glory of this grilled cheese instead of mom’s borscht. If you adore beets, give her super easy from-the-pantry recipe a go. Happy Cooking!

For each serving you will need: 2 slices of bread, some soft butter, thick slices of aged cheddar, tomato slices.

HEAT a medium skillet over medium-low heat. Spread the outside of each slice of bread with butter. Set one slice, butter side down, in the skillet as it heats. Top with an even layer of cheese, then slices of tomato, then another layer of cheese. Top with the second slice of bread, butter side out.

COOK the sandwich low and slow to melt the bottom layer of cheese. When the underside of the sandwich is your preferred shade of golden, carefully flip and cook the second side. When side two is golden and all the cheese is melted, maybe with some sizzling out on the hot skillet, remove to your waiting plate. Cut the sandwich in half on the diagonal for maximum enjoyment. Serve with orange slices.

20 Questions with Galen

The local food scene in Baton Rouge features some devoted young farmers and Galen Iverstine is the meat guy, passionate about feeding the community delicious pasture-raised beef, pork, chicken and turkey. He thinks on his feet, always ready to adapt to any situation. I met Galen the week after I relocated to Louisiana, calling him as a complete stranger to ask about getting involved with flood relief in the Baton Rouge area. He was serving barbecue to the residents in his parents’ neighborhood while they cleaned up from the 2016 flood. I offered that my daughter and I could come out and make pancakes and our friendship was forged.

For this interview, Galen and I met for a cool drink at French Truck Coffee. He had just done a next level hand-washing tutorial with his staff at the butcher shop and met with me before heading home to make dinner for his kids while his wife went to girlfriends’ night out. Each day since, he and his staff have devised and revised plans to continue to serve their loyal customers during this unprecedented time. I’ve stopped by their fan favorite shop each day this week to find them doing brisk business a few customers at a time while also packing bags for home delivery. In a time when hugging isn’t advised, it’s really great to shake the hand that feeds you!

What’s your 20 minute recipe? 20 minutes is the time period I have to cook! Every recipe in my house starts with 1 1/2 cups of Basmati rice. I slice Bavette steak from the shop into really thin strips across the grain, do a quick marinade and stir fry it with vegetables. This one’s my go to and I change it up with different spices

What’s your favorite city? Lahaina, Hawaii on Maui. I worked there for five months when I took a hiatus from school at 21. It was the perfect time to do it. I went back and visited with my wife for our honeymoon.

What’s your favorite restaurant in your current city? This is so hard, I don’t wanna make anybody mad. We always go to Beausoleil. They were my first customer. Service and menu are great. They have great classic cuisine and great cocktails and it’s always well executed.

Treasured find in the back of your fridge? The liquor that’s left from a pickled something. The Cultured Guru pickle brine is really good. It’s fermented so it adds depth and funk to whatever I’m cooking. I like to pour a little in a pot of soup.

Who taught you to cook? My parents taught me the basics and I have learned from a lot of the best home cooks in Baton Rouge.

What’s your go-to dish for company? Spaghetti and meatballs cuz I make a damn good spaghetti and meatballs! I do some bone-in meat that falls off in the red gravy that takes all day to cook. I do the meatballs 1/3 beef, 1/3 pork and 1/3 Italian sausage. Please don’t put sugar in your gravy! I follow it exactly the way my grandmother made it and put a whole carrot in to sweeten the whole pot while it simmers.

What’s on your cooking playlist? Guy Clark.

Coffee, tea, or Kombucha? Coffee. 100 percent! French press. I brew the Parish State of Mind from Titan Coffees. We sell it in the shop.

Date night—at home? or out? Out if we can pull it off. We have designated the first Friday night out with another couple. We go try out the new place in town.

Most stained cookbook? I have a couple of really stained pages in John Folse’s big book. The carrot cake and Gumbo Tips are great. I don’t use a lot of recipes, I’m just looking for guidance.

Indispensable kitchen tool? Chef’s knife, tongs and a good spatula.

Staple childhood comfort food? My grandmother’s roast, rice and gravy. Or her spaghetti and meatballs. If she invited you for dinner you would drop everything and be there in five minutes. She always made this great salad with a minced-to-powder blend of celery, parsley and green onion tossed in. I still make it today.

Go-to olive oil? I like the ones from Red Stick Spice for finishing. Most of my high temp cooking is done with avocado oil. I really like a good butter.

Ideal grilled cheese? The one from Chelsea’s circa 2006.

Who would you most like to share a meal with? past, present or fictional? Thomas Jefferson. He’s an agrarian, so smart. It’s really cool touring Monticello.

How do you like your toast? Medium/just browned with an uncomfortable amount of Kerrygold butter.

Favorite pizza topping? Italian sausage.

What’s your Counter Intelligence cooking tip? Don’t overcomplicate it. The most sustainable way to cook is to buy ingredients you can use in multiple platforms throughout the week.

Three things next to your stove? Salt, spoon rest and a big Boos Block cutting board

What’s your favorite sports team? I ride dirt bikes, that’s my sport. Just started back this year. I do enjoy an LSU baseball game.

Freestyle stir fry! This one features what I had in my produce drawer: mushrooms, red bell pepper, carrot, green onion. Cilantro and broccoli microgreens make a fun and flavorful garnish.

Galen’s Bavette Beef Stir Fry with Basmati Rice

Galen describes the bavette steak as ‘such a great cut of meat that nobody knows about’ and after testing the recipe as he suggested, I’m a believer! I will now be stocking 1 pound bavettes from Iverstine’s Butcher Shop in my freezer. He tweaks the recipe to match the veggies he has on hand and spices the stir fry accordingly. Galen confessed he doesn’t have room for the clutter of kitchen gadgets. I did test this recipe using my birthday gift rice cooker for the rice and I am hooked. The ingredients here are as I tested

• 1 1/2 cups Basmati rice (cooked according to package directions)

• 1 pound bavette steak, frozen/partially thawed and thinly shaved across the grain in diagonal slices

• 1 tablespoon plus 1/4 cup soy sauce, divided use

• 2 fat garlic cloves, minced

• spoonful of hot chili oil or good pinch of crushed red pepper

• 1 tablespoon avocado oil

• 1/2 pound sliced mushrooms

• 1 red bell pepper, cut into thin strips

• 2 carrots peeled and cut julienne (there’s a peeler for this and it’s a great kitchen gadget!)

• 2 green onions, sliced

• chopped fresh cilantro for flavorful garnish

• broccoli microgreens for garnish, optional

START the rice. After it boils, reduce heat to simmer and cover. it will be ready to fork fluff when your stir fry is done. Or let the rice cooker do the work for you.

TOSS the sliced beef with 1 tablespoon soy sauce, the minced garlic and the chili oil or crushed red pepper. Set aside for a few minutes to marinate while you prep the vegetables.

HEAT the oil in a large skillet over medium high heat. Add the beef in a single layer and cook for about a minute, then toss and stir fry another minute or until the meat is mostly browned. Using tongs, remove to a bowl, leaving the juices in the skillet.

ADD the mushrooms to the skillet and cook stirring for a few minutes until just tender, then add the bell pepper and carrot. Cook another minute or three until the bell pepper softens. Add the 1/4 cup soy sauce and scrape the pan to get all the good bits incorporated.

ADD the cooked beef back to the skillet and stir in the green onions.

SERVE over rice, garnish as desired with cilantro and microgreens, more chili oil or crushed red pepper and a squeeze of lime if you like.

20 Questions with Sara

Sara Hamilton is my first born and she had little choice but to be raised on the kitchen counter. Fortunately she took to it like a baby to bathwater. In her youth, her favorite T-shirt was the Life is Good PB&J, so it’s no surprise what she claims as her childhood comfort food. I have the best memories of Sara’s cooking exploits including the time she decided to make homemade pop tarts late one night in middle school. In high school she would kick us out of the kitchen to host her friends for big dinners or cake pop parties. I can still hear the laughter!

When Sara left home for college, she glanced at the stacks of cookbooks in the kitchen and said, ‘I’m going to miss you!’ She wrote about turning her dorm room into a dinner party and worked in a campus after hours cafe, upgrading the standard grilled cheese. A native of West Virginia, Sara also wrote about the official state food the pepperoni roll describing it as infinitely greater than the sum of its parts. Now that we’ve all moved away from West Virginia, it’s a joy to make pepperoni rolls in our home kitchen! Just as we left for Louisiana, Sara graduated from college, moved to New York then London and is now back in New York where the counter space is premium.

What’s your 20 minute recipe? Noodle Bowls with Broccoli and a creamy sesame sauce.

What’s your favorite city? London. Or New Orleans. Two great cities

What’s your favorite restaurant in your current city? That’s so hard! Most recently I went to Win Son, delicious Taiwanese food. It is sooooo good! I had a noodle bowl and a deep fried scallion pancake filled with beef tartare.

Treasured find in the back of your fridge? Harissa. I found some in the back of my fridge the other day and I put it on a bagel with bacon, egg and cheese. It was so good!

Who taught you to cook? YOU! You taught me how to cook! Thank you!

What’s your go-to dish for company? Fancy pasta. A favorite is all’Amatriciana which can even be a 20 minute recipe so you can make it for friends on a weeknight.

What’s on your cooking playlist? Lately I’ve been listening to a lot of Bad Bunny and Remi Wolf.

Coffee, tea, or Kombucha? COFFEE, though I do love tea!

Most stained cookbook? Salt Fat Acid Heat.

Indispensable kitchen tool? Sharp knife or rubber scraper.

Staple childhood comfort food? Peanut butter and jelly, and grilled peanut butter and jelly for special occasions.

Who would you most like to share a meal with? past, present or fictional? Nina Compton. I love her food and it would be really cool to meet her!

Best thing you’ve ever eaten in an airport? I had some really good Turkish ice cream at the airport in Istanbul. It’s not like regular ice cream, it’s almost chewy. It’s really good.

Date night—at home? or out? Cook at home! Definitely! Listen to some music, drink some wine.

Ideal grilled cheese? Ruth Reichl’s grilled cheese. Can we make it?!

How do you like your toast? Very well toasted with lots of butter and salt.

Favorite pizza topping? Pepperoni, weirdly. Even though that is boring. Or caramelized onions.

Where would you want to take a cooking class? Ballymaloe Cooking School in Ireland.

What’s your Counter Intelligence cooking tip? Salt your pasta water really well.

Three things next to your stove? Salt, olive oil…That’s all that will fit on the counter.

Cooking the broccoli right in the pasta pot makes this dish come together quick!

Noodle Bowl with Sesame Dressing

Sara loves this with soba noodles. We’ve made it with ‘what’s in the pantry’ and it’s delicious with any type of cooked al dente long pasta. Couple of keys: Add the broccoli when there’s 4 minutes left on your timer, depending on cooking time for your desired noodle type; and don’t forget to save some pasta cooking water

8 ounces soba or other long noodle

small bunch of broccoli cut into florets

1 cup thin sliced red bell pepper

handful of sliced green onion

handful of rough chopped cilantro

1/4 cup tahini

3 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons rice vinegar

a few drops of sesame oil, to taste

pinch or so of crushed red pepper flakes

lime wedges for serving

BRING a large pot of generously salted water to a boil and cook the noodles according to package directions for al dente. Add the broccoli for the final 4 minutes of cooking time (Angel hair cooks so quick so you actually start the broccoli then add the noodles).

DRAIN the noodles and broccoli, reserving a mugful of cooking water. Transfer to a large serving bowl or back into your pot to toss with the dressing.

MAKE the dressing while the noodles are cooking. In a small bowl, whisk together the tahini, soy sauce, rice vinegar, sesame oil and crushed red pepper flakes.

TOSS the noodles with the dressing, red bell pepper, green onion, and cilantro.

SERVE warm or at room temp with lime wedges and chopsticks if you like.