20 Questions with Ted

Counter Intelligence is the column I founded and wrote for the Charleston Gazette-Mail for three years before I moved to Louisiana. I also wrote a cookbook of the same name and in this 20 Questions blog series, I have loved reconnecting with friends from everywhere and learning their counter intelligence kitchen tips. Ted Boettner probably reads everything within reach, he made it all the way to the back page of the Gazette’s Life&Style section. He emailed me on occasion about something in my column which led to lively debates about butter, sugar and all things kitchen. It was great to engage on cooking topics with a widely published think tank guy! We made a salad during the legislative session in West Virginia and I shared the recipe in my Counter Intelligence column (linked below with Ted’s recipe question). 

I caught up with Ted when I visited Charleston a few years back to visit friends and unveil the Charlie Cart teaching kitchen at the YMCA. He brought his young daughter to the interactive cooking demo and when they made the featured ‘Three Sisters Saute’ last week in their home kitchen, he sent a pic of his now eight-year old daughter chopping zucchini for the dish. He must have read my mind! He was in my cue for 20 Questions. He just switched to a new think tank and now works as a senior researcher with Ohio River Valley Research Institute, focusing in part on sustainable economic development. 

When he’s not being a policy wonk, Ted enjoys a nice whitewater paddle in West Virginia, running marathons, hiking at Dolly Sods, some political theory, and cooking for friends.

What’s your 20 minute recipe? My go-to because of the kids and what they love is Marcella Hazan’s tomato sauce with onion and butter. I serve it over whole wheat spaghetti. I swear it is so good and simple! With a good can of Italian tomatoes it’s 1-2-3 and done in 20 minutes. I like to make a nice salad to go with it.

What’s your favorite city? There are a couple of places I would move to: Missoula, Bozeman, or Helena, Montana. I went to Missoula a few years ago and after driving across the country, went to a paddle shop and the guy there made some calls and lined up a shuttle and everything for us. Big Sky has some of the best backpacking and not very many people. It’s a playground!

What’s your favorite restaurant in your current city? Cafe Cimino. It’s 50 miles away, kind of old fashioned. The chef comes out and they keep bringing you stuff. It’s all really damn good! It’s the kind of place you order coffee after dinner.

Treasured find in the back of your fridge? I have some ramp butter. Also there are some things in life you have to have. I always keep feta in my fridge. It makes everything better

Who taught you to cook? My mom definitely. We had meals at the table at least 5-6 days a week, very ritualistic. We had church at the table, preparing good food and taking time to enjoy it. She taught me to be a good analyst of recipes, reading them from the bottom up. It reminds me of a James Baldwin quote: “Children have never been very good at listening to their elders, but they have never failed to imitate them.”

What’s your go-to dish for company? That’s a good question. I do the opposite of what you’re supposed to do. I experiment on company. When it works out, it’s a lot of fun. I always make a grain salad in case it doesn’t work out. I got a really nice piece of flank steak from Dickinson Gould the other day and served it to company. It was like, “chimichurri, come to me!” I like to do a large side of salmon and cook it, it’s easy but the people are like ‘how did you do that?!’

What’s on your cooking playlist? I do a very eclectic mix. I’ve been listening to Florence and the Machine. Sturgill Simpson, I really like him a lot. John Prine, too.

Coffee, tea, or Kombucha? Coffee no doubt. I look forward to my morning coffee when I go to bed at night. I do like kombucha! It helps if I’ve had too much to drink the night before.

Date night--at home? or out? Usually out. We love Secret Sandwich Society in Fayetteville! It’s worth the drive.

Most stained cookbook? Yours, of course! What I end up doing is watching shows and then I google how to make some of the dishes. I got really into this show about Argentinian street food, hence the chimichurri. 

Surf? or Turf? Surf. Fresh caught grouper is really amazing. I’ve had salmon that I caught in Alaska and it was good, but the grouper I caught off the coast of North Carolina was better.

Indispensable kitchen tool? Right now I’d say it’s my new carbon steel pan. There’s nothing that thing won’t do! I keep it out on my stove.

Staple childhood comfort food? Sloppy Joes. My mom used to whip those up all the time. I still make them. I make a really bourgeois version with pickled red onion and a good bun. They make me feel really comfortable.

Who would you most like to share a meal with? past, present or fictional? My reflexive answer is Christopher Hitchens. He was witty and smart and loved indulgence.

Ideal grilled cheese? Hearty wheat or sourdough with a combo of cheeses. I like something sharp with muenster, I like the way it melts. I’ll add thinly sliced apples and onions.

Favorite pizza topping? My uncle makes this wonderful pizza with pepperoni and blueberries. It’s fabulous!

Where would you want to take a cooking class? I’ve always wanted to go the the King Arthur baking school in Vermont for a weeklong immersion bread course. I would love to do that.

What’s your Counter Intelligence cooking tip? I’m going back to the feta from before. Also when I’m cooking meats, I use a really good quality garlic powder instead of fresh garlic which tends to burn. I’ll make a rub with garlic powder, cayenne, salt and pepper.

Three things next to your stove? Tongs, kosher salt in a barn, olive oil.

Favorite Sports Team? New York Mets. The first time I went to New York City my dad took us to a Mets game. I took my daughter to Pittsburgh for three games when the Mets were in playing the Pirates. Also I love watching 30 for 30.

Deliciously simple tomato sauce tossed with whole wheat spaghetti, ready to embellish (or not) and serve .

Tomato Sauce with Onion and Butter

Marcella Hazan, the famed Italian cooking teacher and writer has many styles of tomato sauce to her credit. A super simple version with canned Italian tomatoes, a halved whole onion and a varying number of tablespoons of butter is arguably one of the most popular. For good reason! It is delicious and the marriage of bright tomato and creamy butter with a backstory of onion is hard to beat, especially since you can cheat the suggested 45 minute simmer time and get ‘er done in 20 flat. Ted likes to serve with whole wheat spaghetti and a meatball or two. He also uses the sauce for lasagne. 

• 1 (28 ounce) can good Italian whole tomatoes

• 1 medium onion (about an 8 ouncer) peeled and halved through the shoot and root

• 5 tablespoons good butter, cut into 5 pieces for quick melting

• Salt
  

POUR the tomatoes and their juices into a large deep pot (I used an enameled Dutch oven. The depth keeps the vigorously simmering sauce from spattering everywhere). Crush them with your clean hands (a great job for the kids!) into smallish pieces, or mash them with a wooden spoon once you get the heat going.

ADD the onion halves, the butter and about a teaspoon of salt.

HEAT the sauce over medium high until it boils, stirring occasionally. 

REDUCE the heat to medium or the level of heat that makes you feel like your sauce is conversing with you while you go about cooking your pasta and making your salad.

STIR the sauce from time to time, cooking until the tomato juices have reduced a bit and the butter melted into a glossy perfection. With a lively-simmer/boil, I coaxed mine into done at 20 minutes.

REMOVE the onion from the pot (it’s a great cook’s treat or fun to add to your next morning’s egg scramble), add salt as needed, and serve with your favorite pasta.

This batch generously coats a pound of spaghetti. It also invites embellishment: fresh basil, red pepper flakes, maybe some Parmesan. 

20 Questions with Cary

It’s fun to reflect about that first encounter. Cary Charbonniez is certainly my kitchen cousin and our friendship began like an arranged marriage. Multiple mutual friends encouraged us to meet and our first hello was a phone call so long ago that the baby I was bathing when Cary called is turning 20 next month. We met in person a few years later when she was opening Lola’s, her instantly popular pizza restaurant in Charleston. 

Celebrating my 40th birthday on a shutdown Sunday evening at Lola’s is forever etched in my memory. We had homebrew and live music. For Cary’s 40th, it was a fancy impromptu potluck on my patio, a fete I wrote about for my very first newspaper column. Fast forward, Lola’s changed hands (over to Cary’s brother) and I moved to Louisiana. After some years away from the restaurant world, Cary is making a comeback with her upcoming Coco’s on Hale Street. She was scheduled to open last month, just as the stay at home order was shuttering many businesses. The delayed opening gives her some new perspective and optimism that everything will work out. “I’ll open with a limited menu with things that will travel well for takeout. Although we can’t hug each other right now, I want to create this feeling that our customers are being hugged. I’m excited to open, the space looks awesome!”

As we talked this week about pizza, raising kids and our shared love of cooking, we brainstormed for some collaborative Zoom cooking classes. It will be a blast to catch y’all in the kitchen! Virtual hugs and Happy Cooking!

What’s your 20 minute recipe? Frittata. You can vary the fillings with what you have on hand, I’ll tell you some of my favorite combinations. I make this easily once a week and serve alongside a nice simple green salad.

What’s your favorite city? I would go with maybe St. John in the Virgin Islands. That’s where I dream about living. If I wanted to sound sophisticated I would say Saint-Raphaël, France, it’s a sophisticated version of St. John.

What’s your favorite restaurant in your current city? Chow Thai. I get the same thing each time, Pad Horapa, stir fried vegetables with a delicious brown sauce served with jasmine rice.

Treasured find in the back of your fridge? Homemade chili oil. You can throw it into a stir fry or anything for a little heat.

Who taught you to cook? My mom definitely experimented with recipes. She was a very adventurous cook. My grandmother, too. We sat down to a set table every night, napkin rings and all. We traveled to my grandmother’s on Friday nights for a big meal, she would get her electric carving knife out. We would finish late and have tea. They both taught me the act of communing together over food.

Surf? or Turf? Surf for sure. I’m not a huge meat eater.

What’s on your cooking playlist? I’ve been listening to west coast hip hop.

Coffee, tea, or Kombucha? Coffee for sure. If I could walk around with an IV of it I would. My cup of coffee is like an extension of my arm.

Date night—at home? or out? Home. I’m kind of a homebody. I prefer to hang out on our front porch or in the backyard.

Most stained cookbook? I love Mark Bittman’s How to Cook Everything. You can find almost anything in there. The recipes are really simple.

Indispensable kitchen tool? My chef’s knife. I love my Global knives, I’m a huge Global fan. Or my Microplane.

Staple childhood comfort food? As a kid I was totally obsessed with the frozen Stouffer’s French bread pizzas.

Go-to butter? I always go to Cabot unsalted butter. Coming from my baking days, we learned that unsalted butter is usually fresher and to add the salt ourselves in cooking and baking.

Who would you most like to share a meal with? past, present or fictional? My mom. I have so many questions I’d like to ask her. Having lost my mom as a teen, I would just love to talk with her as an adult. Girlfriend to girlfriend. Talk about parenting and food.

Ideal grilled cheese? Definitely fresh mozzarella with basil pesto and a freshly sliced tomato. I love it on Charleston Bread’s ciabatta.

How do you like your toast? Very dark and crispy.

Favorite pizza topping? I’m a purist believe it or not. I’m a Margherita pizza all the way.

Where would you want to take a cooking class? I love California cuisine. Nothing too pretentious. I’d love to go to California and learn in a small independently owned restaurant. I’d volunteer my services for a week.

What’s your Counter Intelligence cooking tip? Don’t be afraid to use a recipe and don’t get stressed out if you are missing an ingredient. You can usually substitute.

Three things next to your stove? Olive oil, salt and pepper.

Best thing you’ve ever eaten in an airport? I gravitate to a sushi stand. It seems counterintuitive, but I’ve had some good sushi in airports.

Cary leans on frittatas for a quick weeknight meal. This one is Italian sausage, broccoli and parmesan, finished with a shower of fresh basil (from the garden!) For spring, I’m thinking asparagus, leeks and goat cheese.

Cary’s Anytime Frittata

Here’s a little outline for frittata fun: skillet, eggs, spoonful of dairy, cheese, veg’s of your choosing and sausage crumbles if you wish. Finish with herbs and Voila! Lovely for breakfast with a side of fresh fruit, or follow Cary’s lead and serve anytime with a simple green salad.

• 1 tablespoon olive oil

• 3 to 5 cups filling—here I used 4 cups of sautéed broccoli florets and 1 cup cooked crumbled Italian sausage

• 8-10 eggs

• 3 tablespoons full-fat dairy (cream, sour cream, crème fraîche)

• 1 cup grated or crumbled cheese (1/2 cup if using parmesan)

• 1/2 teaspoon salt

• chopped or torn fresh herbs for tasty garnish

HEAT the oven to 350 and place the rack in the middle position.

HEAT the olive oil in a 10-inch skillet over medium heat (if you have a beautifully seasoned cast iron, use this. If you are less confident about your skillet, go with an ovenproof nonstick). Add the raw broccoli florets and toss in the oil. Cover with lid ajar and let sauté/steam for a few minutes while you prepare the egg mixture.

CRACK the eggs into a large bowl and whisk to blend. Add the cream of choice and the cheese. Check on your broccoli—give it a stir. When the broccoli is just tender, stir in the crumbled sausage, if using, and add the salt to the egg mixture, whisk again to blend and pour the egg mixture over the broccoli and sausage in an even layer. Shake the skillet gently to distribute.

PLACE the skillet in the oven and bake the frittata until the center is set but not dry and the edges are light golden brown, about 12-15 minutes.

REMOVE from the oven and let cool briefly before sprinkling with herbs and cutting into wedges for serving. (My C.I. tip: Place a pot holder over the handle so you don’t accidentally grab the oven-hot handle).

Cary’s other suggested combos:

• broccoli rabe, crumbled Italian sausage, parmesan

• spinach, shallots, cherry tomatoes, cheddar, parmesan

• zucchini and cheddar

Countdown to chez Julia: 99 Days to Go--let them eat cake!

“The way to entice people into cooking is to cook delicious things.”--Yotam Ottolenghi

Here is a condensed version of an actual conversation between a couple of savvy preschoolers, as told to me by a friend:  One child announces “My family is counting calories and carbs,” and her pint-sized playmate answers, “my family doesn’t count calories OR carbs.  We count chemicals.”

I gasped when I heard this.  It’s so exciting to know that kids are talking about what’s in their food.  The lightbulb is on and these dialogs are happening in preschool circles and hopefully around the kitchen table. Mindfulness of caloric intake is a necessity of life, but the quality and source of those calories is what really matters.  In this age of speed eating and ‘get thin quick’ shakes and such, we have lost sight of cooking real food with fresh ingredients.

Everywhere we turn, packaged food is available touting claims of ‘light’ or ‘low carb’ yet their labels reveal tons of unpronounceable ingredients, or in other words, chemicals. You can grab something off the grocery shelf or spend some quality time in the kitchen baking something really satisfying. If you don’t fancy yourself a baker, or absolutely run in fear of cooking from scratch, you MUST make this fabulous cake.

I discovered this recipe a few years back while thumbing through a Bon Appetit magazine.  In the description it is reported to be ‘the first dessert French children learn to make.”  I suggested that my daughter make it and she whipped it together effortlessly.  It has been a staple ever since.

You start with basic baking pantry ingredients and add yogurt which gives the cake a delicate richness.  Lemon zest makes it tangy, and the technique of first blending granulated sugar with the lemon zest helps extract the flavorful oils, giving a pronounced lemon note.  The mixing is totally uncomplicated--all you need is a whisk.

Let them eat cake! Have a baking party -- the kids can take their creations home in a festive paper 

Before you know it, the silky batter is ready for the oven and suddenly the whole house is filled with the delicious aroma of homemade cake.  No unpronounceable ingredients, just enticing goodness. Invite the neighborhood kids over for a little baking session, they will be hooked.

FRENCH YOGURT CAKE

It has been reported that this is the first recipe that children in France learn to make.  It’s that easy and equally delicious! Cardboard loaf pans from the cake decorating section work well and make this a perfect cooking party activity.

• butter for the pan
• 1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour, plus extra for the pan
• 2 teaspoons baking powder
• 3/4 teaspoon kosher salt
• 1 cup sugar
• 1 tablespoon finely grated lemon zest
• 3/4 cup whole-milk Greek yogurt
• 1/2 cup vegetable oil
• 2 large eggs
• 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

Preheat oven to 350°F. Coat a standard (8 1/2x4 1/4") loaf pan with with a smear of soft butter. Dust with flour; tap out excess. Whisk the flour, baking powder, and salt in a medium bowl. 

Using your fingers, rub the sugar with the lemon zest in a large bowl to release the flavorful lemon oil. Add the Greek yogurt, vegetable oil, eggs, and vanilla extract; whisk to blend. Stir in the flour mixture just to blend. Pour batter into prepared pan; smooth top. Bake until top of cake is golden brown and a tester inserted into center comes out clean, 45-55 minutes. Let cake cool in pan on a wire rack for 15 minutes. Invert onto rack; let cool completely. DO AHEAD: Can be made 3 days ahead. Store airtight at room temperature

Double the recipe to make a bundt cake for a crowd!  I like to use half butter in the double recipe--barely melt the butter and add with the oil

Sweet Potato Chili

What do you get when you combine one ton of sweet potatoes and an elementary school? You get an all-hands-on-deck chili fest! When KEYS for Healthy Kids, a Charleston, WV based non-profit that focuses on children's health, received a pallet of West Virginia grown sweet potatoes from the state Department of Agriculture, they made sure the crop made it into good hands.

Principal Henry Nearman at Ruffner Elementary hosted "Sweet Potato Day," inviting children into the cafeteria to jump in for some sweet potato read aloud and a bunch of cooking fun, followed by a tasting for all. We made a 20-times batch in the cafeteria's soup kettle to rave reviews. Get your hands on some sweet potatoes and try this at home!

Sweet Potato Chili for 3 (or 300)

for our tasting, a 20-times batch made 300 sample servings. At home, a single batch will feed 3 or 4. Add a green salad accented with orange segments and avocado and it's dinner!

• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 1 medium onion, chopped
• 2 teaspoons chili powder (I prefer pure Ancho Chili Powder) 
• 1 cup water
• 1 10-ounce red-skinned sweet potato, peeled, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
• 1 (14 ½ -ounce) can diced tomatoes (I prefer Fire Roasted)
• 1 (15- to 16-ounce) can black or pinto beans, drained
• 3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
• 1 ½  teaspoons grated orange peel 

Heat olive oil in heavy medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Add onion and sauté until golden, about 5 minutes. Add chili powder and stir 1 minute. Add water and sweet potato cubes. Cover pan; reduce heat to medium and simmer until potato is almost tender, about 10 minutes. Add tomatoes with their juices and beans. Simmer uncovered until chili thickens and potato is very tender, about 10 minutes. Mix in cilantro and orange peel. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve. 

Serves 3 or 4, and easily doubles

What's for Dinner?

Half the battle of home-cooking is the question of WHAT? Take turns choosing your weekly menus and the whole family gets engaged. WHEN in the world will you have time to cook given a busy schedule filled with late meetings and kids' activities? Choose some simple recipes and prep a little in advance, then you can put your meals together 'a-la-minute.' If you've drawn a blank, start the week with a Sunday kitchen session, whipping up a batch of 'ground beef starter' that can translate into countless meals throughout the week.

I had a fun time in the kitchen recently with our Secretary of Health, Karen Bowling, making taco salads, a healthy twist to the traditional Taco Salad Tuesday. Jump into the kitchen with us! 

Fried Rice, Your Way

“The only thing that you absolutely have to know, is the location of the library.”--Albert Einstein

Whenever I need to jumpstart my recipe repertoire, I turn to the library.  Sure there are some hundreds, even thousands of cooking blogs and websites, many of which I turn to daily.  However, nothing quite compares to thumbing through a great cookbook.

My cookbook collection grows exponentially every time I visit the library.  My shelves overflow with great cooking titles, yet I can never get enough.  I love visiting the ‘new arrivals’ section, bring several home, and without fail fall in love. There are some I find I couldn’t live without and purchase a few from time to time, finding room on my crowded shelves.  The Seductions of Rice by Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid is a top-ten in my collection, and I first discovered it at the library.

My cooking education began at my mother’s knee and continues today with every book I read.  I’ve been accused of reading cookbooks like novels and it’s absolutely true.  I can’t get enough. I’m currently entrenched in Mark Kurlansky’s new book International Night, soaking up the flavors of cultures from across the globe. Fascinating facts and trivia mingle with recipes in this hefty tome penned by Kurlansky and his 14-year old daughter Talia.  My kind of book!  

The Kurlanskys present a culinary world tour to us hungry readers, marching us along from Andalusia ‘where two continents meet’ to Japan ‘a very crowded island nation with the world’s longest life expectancy,’ stopping along the way to sip, sample, and stir in every corner of civilization.

I’m swept away and suddenly realize it’s time to cook dinner.

I turn to The Best Homemade Kids’ Lunches on the Planet by Laura Fuentes and find a perfectly delicious no-fuss Fried Rice recipe.  The headnotes are right up my alley--‘no measurements to follow and just some simple rules: use leftover rice.’ I just happen to have cold rice from last night’s dinner and only a few minutes before everyone’s starving.  Then I can quickly get back to my awaiting stack of books.

Better-Than-Takeout Fried Rice

tweak according to your whim and what you have on hand

• 2 eggs, beaten
• 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
• 1 1/2 cups mixed chopped vegetables (I’m going with carrot, green onion, and frozen peas)
• 2 tablespoons soy sauce
• 3/4 cup cooked diced chicken or tofu , or a handful of cashews
• 3 cups leftover cold cooked rice

Heat oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. When oil shimmers, add the egg and let sit until it bubbles and just the center remains uncooked. Carefully turn the ‘egg pancake’ and cook another minute until done.Transfer to a plate and cut into small squares.  Set aside.

Add the vegetables to the skillet and stir to coat with the residual oil. Reduce the heat to medium, drizzle with the soy sauce and cover.  Cook 1 minute to quick-steam the vegetables. (Depending on type and size of vegetables, time may vary). Add the chicken or tofu and toss to combine.

Add the rice and stir gently to combine. Cook, covered, for 3 minutes to heat the rice through. Then uncover and cook a few extra minutes, if desired, to sear rice.Gently fold in the cooked egg and serve with chopsticks.

Serves 4

30 Days of Kitchen Fun!

My friends at I Love Nice People are rolling out  "A Month of Niceness" campaign, a great reminder to all of us to join them in doing a nice deed every day for the month. Their suggestion for today is "talk to someone who seems lonely" and of course my personal favorite is this Saturday's tip: "Make breakfast for your friends." I love their idea and checked in with Kate Webster, college student and co-founder of ILNP to ask about kicking off a similar calendar "30 Days of Kitchen Fun". In addition to granting approval for me to mimic her concept, she made the calendar for me. Talk about NICE!

Kate and I share some fun kitchen history--For her 10th birthday, she celebrated in the teaching kitchen with her friends and I was the lucky one who cooked alongside these cute 4th graders. I remember the scenario well--I had donated a class as part of a Hurricane Katrina fundraiser that our school was hosting and Kate's parents bought it. Next thing you know, the kitchen was full of giggling 4th grade girls. We had a ball and are in search of the photos to share the memories. 

Have a NICE day, and Happy Cooking!