20 Questions with Nancy

Nancy Bruns relocated to her hometown of Charleston, West Virginia when she and her brother Lewis Payne revitalized their family’s award winning salt business. Breaking ground in 2013 on their 21st Century version of a multigenerational industry, Nancy fully immersed herself in all things salt. We became fast friends the moment Lewis and his wife Paige introduced us at an intimate dinner party at their home. I had the good fortune of being a salt taster early on, before they had coined their name J.Q. Dickinson SaltWorks, and catered their big family feast for their website photo shoot.

Nancy blends her many talents as a formally trained chef and entrepreneur to become a salty success story. Her enthusiastic expansion of the family business earned her the accolade of West Virginia Wonder Woman. When she isn’t at work in Malden, you can find her preparing delicious meals in her kitchen or exploring the food scene outside of West Virginia traveling with her kids.

What’s your 20 minute recipe? Shrimp and sausage skewers with smoked paprika glaze. I think it can come together in about 20 minutes, or to save time you can ditch the skewers and do it as a sheetpan roast.

What’s your favorite city? New York City. I love the eclectic mix of food and the vibrancy of the food scene. I always find something interesting and new. I usually go twice a year, once each for business and pleasure.

What’s your favorite restaurant in your current city? Noah’s Restaurant & Lounge. I love that he’s raising a lot of his vegetables and he’s the one in the kitchen. You can feel the love in the food.

Treasured find in the back of your fridge? a jar of preserved Meyer lemons, always something I keep on hand. I love the flavor! Not as tart as regular lemons and it’s salty which of course I love.

Who taught you to cook? Started with my parents! They always enjoyed cooking together. Some of my fondest family memories are from the kitchen and around the family table. Someone would put the phone receiver in the kitchen drawer so we wouldn’t have any interruptions at dinner. My mom would sign me up for children’s cooking classes and in high school I went to a French cooking series in Washington, D.C. After college, I went to culinary school. I can’t forget Otis! He’s an important mentor as well. I worked for him at his shop Laury’s Gourmet two summers during college.

What’s your go-to dish for company? I love braised dishes! They’re easy to have finished in a warm oven. In the winter I’ll do a braised pork shoulder in Guinness Stout with balsamic vinegar and sour cherries. It’s not a 20 minute recipe. In the summer I like serving al fresco, something off the grill with a big salad.

What’s on your cooking playlist? I love Mumford and Sons, Avici. I love Don McLean’s American Pie.

Coffee, tea, or Kombucha? I’m a coffee drinker. I love coffee! Decaf. People who drink decaf should not be ignored. I love decaf espresso with frothed milk.

Most stained cookbook? Probably my mother’s cookbook Let’s Have An Affair. My next one is New Basics. I use books for inspiration and look at recipes then throw it together to make it my own.

Indispensable kitchen tool? My chef’s knife for sure, and my Peltex whip. It’s great for turning fish and eggs.

Staple childhood comfort food? Eggs & toast. Two softboiled eggs with lots of butter and salt and pepper. It makes me feel good! You’ve gotta get the eggs just right though. I’m a big fan of egg cookery. People take them for granted. When I was a guest on Jeff Shirley’s Three Things, my ‘favorite’ and ‘future’ were all about eggs.

Who would you most like to share a meal with? past, present or fictional? Julia Child. I would want to be in the kitchen with her and then sit down at the table with her. Just the two of us or maybe Paul could come. Can I ask for this to be in France?

Best thing you’ve ever eaten in an airport? In Spain, Iberico ham sandwich on really good crusty bread. I could eat that daily, or three times a day. The Madrid airport. American airports are getting better.

Go-to olive oil? It’s hard to have just one! I love the Villa DiTrapano for finishing and Colavita for everyday.

Ideal grilled cheese? Bread is very important. Sourdough, mix of cheeses. Swiss, Havarti and spread a little goat cheese on there, too. Lots of butter on the bread and griddle until it’s almost charred.

Favorite pizza topping? Prosciutto with arugula.

Where would you want to take a cooking class? I would love to do something in the South of France. If I can dream, I’d look for a five day intensive cooking there. Maybe I’d go with my friend April. (!!!)

What’s your Counter Intelligence cooking tip? Go with your instincts when you’re cooking. It’s okay to mess with a recipe, you don’t have to follow it exactly. This is why I don’t do a lot of baking.

Three things next to your stove? Salt and pepper and olive oil. Yes, of course JQ Dickinson salt and I like Telicherry peppercorns in a grinder.

What’s your favorite sports team? I really like the Green Bay Packers. I love that they’re owned by the fans. I gave my son one share for Christmas. It’s fun to say, ‘hey! I’m part of this team.’

Tossed with a smoked paprika glaze, shrimp, Cajun sausage, peppers and onions roast in a blazing oven for a super delicious weeknight meal. For a dressier presentation, skewer and grill the ingredients for company.

Nancy’s Shrimp and Sausage with Smoked Paprika Glaze

Nancy threads the dressed shrimp, sausage, and vegetables on skewers before cooking and suggests rice as a serving accompaniment. Oven-roasting the ingredients on a sheetpan and serving with fast cooking couscous makes for an easy weeknight meal. I placed my sheetpan on top of my oven’s pizza stone to really get things sizzling. The fresh herbs here remind me it’s time to start a windowsill garden!

For the glaze:

• 1 clove garlic, minced

• 1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves

• 1 1/2 teaspoons smoked paprika

• pinch of crushed red pepper

• pinch of salt

• 2 teaspoons Sherry vinegar

• 1/3 cup olive oil

COMBINE the garlic, thyme, smoked paprika, crushed red pepper, salt, and Sherry vinegar in a small bowl. DRIZZLE the olive oil in slowly while whisking to blend.

For the sheetpan/skewers

• 3/4 pound large raw shrimp, peeled and deveined

• 1/2 pound Andouille sausage, cut into thick coin slices

• 1 medium red bell pepper, cut into 1-inch squares

• 1 small red onion, cut into chunks

• 3 tablespoons chopped Italian parsley for serving

HEAT the oven to 400 and line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper or foil (hello easy cleanup!)

PUT the shrimp in a bowl and toss with about 3 tablespoons of the smoked paprika glaze.

PUT the sausage, bell pepper and onion on the prepared baking sheet, drizzle with about 3 tablespoons of the glaze and toss to coat. Push these ingredients over to cover about 2/3 of the sheetpan to make room for the shrimp.

LAY the shrimp out in a single layer on the other 1/3 of the sheetpan.

ROAST for 8 minutes, then turn the shrimp and roast for 2 minutes until shrimp are just cooked through. Remove the shrimp to a dish and continue roasting the sausage and vegetables until the vegetables are just tender, about 5 minutes.

SERVE a scoop of sausage and vegetables with three or four shrimp, sprinkle with parsley and offer the remaining smoked paprika glaze on the side.

With thanks to Nancy for this versatile recipe loaded with the flavors of Louisiana!

Happy cooking!

20 Questions with Ellen

Baking is Ellen Gray’s personal sport and she speaks fluent pie. As they say, the proof is in the pudding and her blog No More Mr. Nice Pie was a finalist in the 2018 Saveur blog awards in the baking and sweets category. A trip through her site’s photos and recipes is like walking into a magical world of delicate pastry, seasonal fruit, and poetry, complete with confidence-building tutorial every step of the way. When she’s not baking professionally or writing on her blog, she whips up witty words and delicious recipes for Saveur and Food52.

I had the good fortune of meeting Ellen briefly at our shared writing coach Molly O’Neill’s annual event The Longhouse Food Revival where she was serving up her famous pies with scoops of ice cream. The following year, Ellen and I were some of the lucky attendees at a food writing retreat, hosted in absentia by our dear Molly, at Julia Child’s summer home in the south of France. Daydreaming about this experience, I’m at Julia’s famed kitchen counter, observing Ellen rolling out pastry for a summer vegetable tart featuring our haul from the local fresh air market. We often muse about when can we go back.

What’s your 20 minute recipe? You can make a pie in 20 minutes. Crumb crusts are quick, and really if you’re organized, you can do it. Key lime pie, the recipe is right there on the can of sweetened condensed milk, only takes a few ingredients and 15 minutes in the oven. If you’re smart, you’ll make two and freeze one. Frozen Key lime pie can be a dessert life saver! It serves up like a citrusy semifreddo.

What’s your favorite city? Whatever city is warm in winter and cool in summer and serves great food. I love them all!

What’s your favorite restaurant in your current city? Arturo’s in Maplewood, New Jersey, adjacent to where I work. It’s the BEST pizza place. They are amazing! The New York Times wrote it up. It’s tiny and there’s always a line.

Treasured find in the back of your fridge? When I find some squirreled away rhubarb in my freezer, it’s just amazing. It makes everything better.

Who taught you to cook? Three women. My mother, paternal grandmother, and her housekeeper Jessie. She really taught me how to feed a crowd.

What’s your go-to dish for company? Chicken pot pie.

What’s on your cooking playlist? I vacillate. Jazz, classical, music from the 70’s, show tunes.

Coffee, tea, or Kombucha? Absolutely coffee! With some whole milk. I grew up with a Chemex before anyone called it a pour over. I still brew this way.

Date night—at home? or out? We see a lot of theater, we are very lucky. So we don’t do a traditional date night. I’ll run from work to the train and meet my husband at the show. Sometimes I’ll grab a dollar slice on the way and arrive with a smudge of sauce on my cheek.

Most stained cookbook? I have a beloved copy of Silver Palate. I just adore that book. I also turn to the Farm Journal’s Complete Pie Cookbook again and again.

Indispensable kitchen tool? I’ll tell you what you can’t really replace is an offset spatula.

Staple childhood comfort food? Homemade chocolate pudding with marshmallows in the bottom.

Who would you most like to share a meal with? past, present or fictional? Laurie Colwin.

Go-to olive oil? Frantoia from Palermo. Made in the antique olive oil pressing tradition by five generations of extra virgin olive oil producers,

Ideal grilled cheese? The BEST I ever had, at Borough Market in London. Assortment of cheeses, the Shire medley. It’s remarkable!! I dream about that grilled cheese.

Favorite pizza topping? Well-made fresh tomato sauce, really delicious fresh mozzarella and fresh basil. There’s really a small summer window for this and it always tastes better when you’re in Europe. UNLESS you get a really good dollar slice and they’re not usually a dollar anymore. They’re more like $4.

Where would you want to take a cooking class? Wild Flour Bread near Sebastopol, California. I want to learn to make bread and scones there. When you walk in it’s like when the colorized part of the Wizard of Oz happens.

What’s your Counter Intelligence cooking tip? People tend to be overly critical when they’re making pie. They need to relax a little bit, it’s only pie. They can try again.

Three things next to your stove? Kosher salt in a very generously filled OLD salt cellar that belonged to my grandmother, an oversized pepper mill, and a framed Charles Schulz comic strip of Lucy scolding Snoopy about junk food and Snoopy says, “come back and have some doughnuts and potato chips with your cupcake.” It reminds me of wisdom of the late Jonathan Gold. Be a curious eater. Don’t do what everyone else is doing.

What’s your favorite sports team? Whoever my children choose as their favorite soccer team. Really whoever has the best jersey. My sport is baking and I’m a runner. I’ve run lots of half marathons. I’m happiest as a team of one.

A classic Key lime pie is a fun canvas for Ellen Gray. She is partial to freezing this popular pie and embellishing it with a variety of fruits at serving time.

How do you bake a pie in 20 minutes? Divide the steps: first make and bake the crumb crust. Next mix the filling, pour it into the cooled crust, and bake for 15 minutes. Following Ellen’s advice, make two pies and you’ll spend almost zero minutes making dessert when you’re in a pinch!

Graham Cracker Crust

1¼ cups graham cracker crumbs
¼ cup packed light brown sugar
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
 
STIR together the graham cracker crumbs, brown sugar and salt in a medium bowl.

ADD the melted butter and toss with a fork to incorporate. Butter a 9” pie plate and press the crumb mixture into the bottom of the pie pan and up the sides. (A small measuring cup is helpful for smoothing the crumbs evenly into the pie plate.)

CHILL the crust while you preheat the oven to 325 degrees F. Bake the crust for about 8 minutes, just until it turns golden. Remove from the oven and set on a rack to cool while you prepare the filling. Increase the oven temperature to 350 degrees F.

Key Lime Filling

Delicious as-is. For Ellen’s over-the-top embellishments, check out the LIME section in her recipe index.

4 large egg yolks
1 can (14 oz.) sweetened condensed milk
2 teaspoons lime zest
1/2 cup Key Lime juice (Ellen uses Nellie and Joe’s- available in most supermarkets)
 
PLACE the egg yolks in a large mixing bowl. Using a handheld electric mixer, beat the egg yolks for 5 minutes until thick. Add the sweetened condensed milk and the zest and beat until smooth, then gradually add the Key Lime juice, beating on low speed to combine.
 
PLACE the cooled pie shell on a baking sheet. Gradually pour the filling into the crust and bake the pie in the preheated 350 degree oven for 15-17 minutes. The pie will be set around the edges and be the slightest bit jiggly in the center. Remove from the oven and let cool completely. Cover with plastic wrap and chill for several hours until firm (or freeze for the ‘semifreddo’ texture, or for later).

CUT into thin wedges and serve as desired. A dollop of whipped cream and thin slice of lime? Or go over the top with Ellen’s extras. ENJOY!

20 Questions with Gray

Thomas Graham Hamilton III is my larger than life brother in law. He’s a concrete guy who is most at home next to his mega sized Big Green Egg in his Melbourne Beach, Florida backyard. He has been affectionately known as Gray from the get-go and also answers to a handful of other nicknames: Gray Babe, Bubba, Papa G, Pop. His self-proclaimed grilling name is Willie Rose, a reference to his favorite masonry trowel.

A groomsman in my wedding, Gray was the Love Shack dancing partner of Cameron Washburn, a memory that continues to bring down the house. Gray and his wife Tami host us anytime we ask. The grill becomes the centerpiece of every visit and it’s hard to tell which way he will roll with the menu. Ribs, pizzas, low and slow pork shoulder. Lately he’s come to love a bone-in, skin-on chicken thigh, seasoned simply with salt and pepper. We had them last night and the extras will feed us for the weekend.

What’s your 20 minute recipe? I would feed the world grilled chicken thighs. You grill three times as many as you need and eat ‘em throughout the week. I just found out I’ve been doing it wrong! Man I was doing low and slow but hotter and shorter is better, then they don’t get dried out.

What’s your favorite city? Whitefish, Montana. I don’t want the word to get out on this place.

What’s your favorite restaurant in your current city? Ichabod’s Dockside. Double Crown and any of their fish. Their chef used to be in the masonry business.

Treasured find in the back of your fridge? It’s not IN the fridge, it’s on top of the fridge. Chicken in a Biscuit crackers. I’m glad my wife isn’t taller so she can’t see them hiding up there.

Who taught you to cook? Paul Kingery, the original barbecue guy of South Brevard.

What’s your go-to dish for company? Steaks on the grill with baked potatoes. Scrub ‘em good so you can eat the skin.

What’s on your cooking playlist? Grazing in the Grass by Hugh Masekela. That’s my walkout song.

Coffee, tea, or Kombucha? What’s Kombucha?!? Coffee. Just black. I am anti four-bucks. I get mine at the 7 Eleven.

Date night—at home? or out? I prefer at home but it doesn’t work out like that. We go to Ichabod’s. I live in a town of 3,000. This isn’t like Manhattan.

Indispensable kitchen tool? I like this fake Damascus chef’s knife. It’s $300 compared to the real one that’s like $8,000 made by Bob Kramer.

Staple childhood comfort food? Crunchy PB&J and Cheerios.

Who would you most like to share a meal with? past, present or fictional? Gus Desch. I’d ask, ‘did my mom sneak out of the house?’ (Gus Desch is Gray’s maternal grandfather of Notre Dame football and Olympic hurdling fame)

Best thing you’ve ever eaten in an airport? Believe it or not, eating Chinese food in a big airport where the planes were taxiing underneath the skybridge.

Would you rather hunt on the land or the sea? I’m not a big hunter, but I do like to bird hunt. I really like to go offshore fishing with multiple friends for large fish—wahoo, dolphin/mahi mahi/dorado, whatever you call it, then tuna.

Favorite pizza topping? Cheese and pepperoni.

Where would you want to take a cooking class? I’d like to take a class with Anthony Bourdain—I love that guy!— at Guy Fieri’s outdoor kitchen. Just to see the stone work!

What’s your Counter Intelligence cooking tip? Keep it simple.

Three things next to your stove? My stove is this grill. Koozie, tongs, and lump charcoal.

What’s your favorite sports team? Chicago Bears

What’s your signature hosting drink? Lindsay’s big time homemade margaritas.

It’s a stretch to call it a 20 minute recipe…the idea is this: grill a lot to enjoy the encore later.

Gray’s Simple Grilled Chicken

Get your grill going nice and hot while you prep the chicken. Trim large bits of visible fat off the bone-in skin-on chicken thighs and load them with salt and pepper. Start them bone-side down and turn after about 20 minutes. Cook on the skin side until it’s dark golden and crisp. Grill three times as many as you need so you can enjoy them from the fridge later.

20 Questions with Ellie

Ellie Goldman’s mom Christie stopped me in the produce section of our favorite Charleston grocery store about 10 years ago to inquire about cooking classes for kids. “My daughter loves to cook!” she explained. She signed her up for my Summer cooking camp and suddenly Ellie and I became fast friends. Fast forward, Ellie is now deciding which college she will attend in the Fall.

On any given night, one of the three Goldman kids will plan the menu and make dinner for the family. Her younger brothers (and of course her parents and neighbor grandparents!) will miss her in the kitchen once she leaves for college. They can all be sure she will know how to feed herself (and likely throw a fabulous dorm room dinner party!) at whichever university she chooses.

What’s your 20 minute recipe? I like to make butter and salted pecans. I make them around the holidays and also mom keeps pecans in the freezer so I can make them any time. It’s just pecans, butter, and I like to use J. Q. Dickinson salt. We gave them to all our neighbors at Christmas, wrapped in little takeout boxes lined with tissue paper.

What’s your favorite city? Chicago. I love the shopping and the big city vibe. It’s clean and progressive, I like that!

What’s your favorite restaurant in your current city? Pies and Pints. I like all their pizza varieties and usually fall back on the sriracha shrimp.

Treasured find in the back of your fridge? Godfather peppers from (our neighbors) the Leefs. They can be used on anything! I like them on steak, or from a fork.

Who taught you to cook? My mom taught me, she’s a really good cook! My grandma taught me to bake.

What’s your go-to dish for company? I like to make a cheese platter with crackers, grapes and apples. It always features brie baked with honey.

What’s on your cooking playlist? I like to turn on happy upbeat music that makes you feel happy and good!

Coffee, tea, or Kombucha? Coffee! We have an espresso machine and I like it with almond milk and a little sugar.

Dinner with friends—at home? or out? I like to cook for people. It’s more fun than going out.

Most stained cookbook page? I have been collecting recipes in a notebook and the most stained page is the recipe for red velvet cupcakes.

Indispensable kitchen tool? Silicone baking mats for cookies or macarons. They make life so much easier!

Staple childhood comfort food? PB&J, grilled. Creamy peanut butter and strawberry jam, on Charleston bread if we have it.

Who would you most like to share a meal with? past, present or fictional? The young actor Timothy Chalamet. I really like the films he’s in.

Best thing you’ve ever eaten in an airport? a great fresh food breakfast in Chicago. I don’t remember the name of the place but it was great finding greens and fresh stuff.

How do you like your toast? Wheat, toasted not too brown with creamy peanut butter right on it, then honey.

Favorite pizza topping? Banana peppers, they go well on a lot of pizzas.

Where would you want to take a cooking class? at a vineyard in Italy.

Three Instagram accounts you follow? Taste of All Charleston, elaborate cakes, and videos of exotic foods

What’s your Counter Intelligence cooking tip? If you are baking macarons, make them in the winter when it’s drier.

What’s your favorite sports team? Virginia Tech. I’ve been brainwashed by my parents.

Quick to make and great for gifts, Ellie loves these butter and salted pecans.

Ellie’s Butter and Salted Pecans

all you need is butter, pecans, and salt. For each cup of pecans, you’ll need about a tablespoon of melted butter and a half teaspoon of salt. Toss this trio together in a bowl, scrape it all out onto a rimmed baking sheet (preferably lined with a silicone baking mat or parchment paper for easy cleanup), add another good sprinkle of salt, and bake at 350 for 10-15 minutes. Check at 10 minutes when the aroma begs you to open the oven door. Have a peek. Depending on how you like them/the oven, cook a few extra minutes without leaving the kitchen. Remove the baking sheet to a wire rack to cool, then store in an airtight container for up to a week or wrap for gifts.

20 Questions with Cameron

Whenever I need a therapeutic dose of laughter, I call Cameron Washburn. He could field calls on a paid line just to lift someone’s spirits. When he picked up the phone for this interview, he mused, “How did you get my number? This is supposed to be a closed line!” He went ‘off the record’ a few times when answering my simple questions. My husband met Cameron freshman year at University of Florida. where they were in the same fraternity pledge class. Then became roommates and brothers forever. He was in our wedding and hit the dance floor with another groomsman doing the Love Shack. I cry laughing at the memory.

Cameron and his wife Lisa live in Atlanta with their teenage daughters Abby and Sarah. We keep visits on a high frequency and most recently they hosted us spontaneously in their home when we invited ourselves for a weekend stay for the Peach Bowl. ‘Come ahead!!’ they said, not fully disclosing they were hosting Lisa’s family and her dad’s 90th birthday party. Friends + Family = Framily. They coined this term and it’s perfect.

What’s your 20 minute recipe? We are a family full of pasta-tarians so we often make pasta. I love a pan-seared chicken breast with some kind of cooking sauce. Also I like to get Lisa to think I can get the Weber going quicker than it actually happens. I’ll create some distraction and open a beer for her, then light the chimney starter for the grill. Or we order Thai. To be more honest about it, I grill a lot of stuff on Sunday to stock the fridge for the week.

What’s your favorite city? Right now I like where I am. I’ve come to enjoy Atlanta. My wistful city is Florence even though I’ve only been there once. Really it’s wherever you guys are.

What’s your favorite restaurant in your current city? EATS on Ponce. They have the BEST jerk chicken. It’s fall off the bone good! I go for the plate with black beans, collards and corn bread. There are some killer places on Buford Highway. Let people know it’s there, they should stop by.

Treasured find in the back of your fridge? Hot sauce. When I’m pretty sure I’m out of hot sauce and find some, it makes me happy. I was in that situation recently.

Who taught you to cook? My grandmother. If she was making something I didn’t like for dinner, she’d have me scramble some eggs for myself. More than teaching me how to cook, she taught me how to feed myself.

What’s your go-to dish for company? Depends who’s coming over. Typically a steak dinner. Lisa does a really good batch of chicken parm.

What’s on your cooking playlist? If it’s the whole family, we’ve been going with The Beatles. We just saw the movie Yesterday. Often it’s (Tom) Petty. I’d rather not get demographic’d but sometimes it’s ‘Alexa play alt country’ or ‘Alexa play the Wilco station’

Coffee, tea, or Kombucha? I’m a coffee guy. I drink A LOT of coffee. First thing in the morning. In my house before I get out of my PJs

Date night—at home? or out? Are the kids home? We have two teenage daughters and if they’re home, we go out. Really it’s a mix.

Most stained cookbook? Your Keepers*. We made your enchiladas just last week. The oven fries are a staple. We make the vegetarian chili and add ground turkey. (*Note: I handwrote a cookbook Keepers a collection of favorites for Christmas gifts in 1992. Fun to see it’s still in use!)

Indispensable kitchen tool? I love my cast iron skillet, and the spatter screen in conjunction with it. Though sometimes it seems the spatter screen doesn’t work so maybe it is dispensable.

Staple childhood comfort food? Moon over Miami, you know the egg in the nest. It tastes just like it used to. You use plenty of butter on both sides of the bread. The circle of toast is the best part! Grill the bread on both sides before cracking the egg into the middle. Flip it over once it’s set and flip it again. It saves any kind of bread you have. When you use really good bread you’re just nailing it!

Who would you most like to share a meal with? past, present or fictional? Jesus, as a historical figure. I have some questions. I’d say ‘hey what’s the deal?’

Go-to olive oil? First cold pressed extra virgin? I don’t really have one. I don’t want to pretend. I’m not that culinary.

Best thing you’ve ever eaten in an airport? That’s EASY! Popeye’s. There are two terminals in Atlanta. I don’t know why people go looking. I will get it way too close to boarding time. I’ll get on the plane with it. The beauty of it is you don’t even need to be in an airport to enjoy.

Ideal grilled cheese? I like it the same as the cheese on my burger. American. It’s ideal. I love the melt on it. Two slices of Kraft American singles. Butter on the bread AND in the pan. Use the best sliced bread you can get your hands on.

Favorite pizza topping? Crushed red pepper to sprinkle on top.

Where would you want to take a cooking class? At your house. You’re my favorite cook in the world.

What’s your Counter Intelligence cooking tip? Make sure you have your kitchen faucet converted to regular stream to prevent matrimonial unbliss. If it’s on shower spray and you have a stack of plates in the sink it’s just a mess.

Three things next to your stove? A spoon rest which changes depending on the season. We just put the Christmas one away. We have a spice drawer right there and the carb corner which is a basket of miscellaneous breads.

What’s your favorite sports team? Florida Gators

When I announced I was finished with the questions, Cameron interrupted, '“Hey Ape, you didn’t ask me how much I bench.”

Exactly 5 ingredients, significantly less than 20 minutes. Add seasonal fruit and you have a quick meal fit for a king or queen!

Moon over Miami

Some call it Eggy Toast, Toad in a Hole, I’m sure there are more names. My mom calls it Cowboy Toast. This one is Cam’s comfort food which doubles as a 20 minute recipe.

For each serving you will need: a slice of bread with about a 3-inch moon circle cut out of the middle, some soft butter, an egg, salt and pepper.

HEAT a medium skillet over medium heat and add a small pat of butter. Spread both sides of the bread and the bread moon with butter and place them in the skillet. When the bread just begins to brown, flip both pieces over and crack the egg into the hole. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. When the egg just begins to set, carefully flip and cook on the second side until the white and yolk are at your preferred degree of doneness. In all, just about a minute and a half per side for ‘over easy.’

SERVE with the moon rising or setting with a side of fresh fruit.

20 Questions with Susan

What a delight to reconnect with a college girlfriend after 20 years of separation! I met Susan Miller in the mid-80’s at Farah’s, a close-to-campus restaurant where we worked when we were students at the University of Florida. Our friendship flourished in her kitchen where we would gather for regular gourmet girls’ nights, the perfect escape from textbooks and waiting tables. After college, we got together from time to time, sharing recipes and laughs. With both of us raising three kids and moving to far flung places, our frequency faded.

Susan speaks in song notes, a voice that sounds the same today as it did 20 years ago. We picked up like no space had ever come between us and we will keep the communication humming! What a treat to get hold of her impressive recipe collection. We plan to make 2020 our in-person reunion year, meeting soon in Nashville to watch her son on the big league soccer field. I vote we rent a vacation home for this visit so we can stir up some fun in the kitchen.

What’s your 20 minute recipe? I don’t make a lot of things that take 20 minutes! If I’m cooking, I’M COOKING, now that my kids are gone. Well, there is a salad I love and it’s perfect in the winter. It’s dressed up oranges and fennel with arugula and parmesan.

What’s your favorite city? Anna Maria Island on the West coast of Florida, soft white sand and not a lot of development.

What’s your favorite restaurant in your current city? Bar la Grassa in Minneapolis. Upscale Italian, delicious pastas and seafood. I love their gnocchi with beautiful roasted cauliflower and orange sauce.

Treasured find in the back of your fridge? Fig jam, it’s great on grilled cheese or on a cheese board. When I find it I’m always happy!

Who taught you to cook? I taught myself. My mom hated to cook! I also learned from friends who love to cook. To me nothing is more fun than sharing a recipe you love with a friend.

What’s your go-to dish for company? Fajita fiesta with margaritas. I make two or three salsas, Spanish rice, old school taco dip and tres leches cake and Key lime pie for dessert. Follow along with Susan’s Sunday dinner festivities #millersundaydinner, where she has been welcoming throngs of family and friends to her table. “It’s always super fun! It makes me try out new recipes. It has taken on a life of its own”

What’s on your cooking playlist? Mostly soul, funk, disco.

Coffee, tea, or Kombucha? Coffee in the morning, regular brew. If I want to be fancy I’ll make a latte.

Most stained cookbook? The original Silver Palate Cookbook

Indispensable kitchen tool? Cheese grater. Pre-grated cheese should NOT be a thing!

Staple childhood comfort food? Lipton chicken noodle soup in a box. I saw it in someone’s shopping cart and a wave of nostalgia came over me. I had to get some.

Three Instagram accounts you follow? @smittenkitchen, @nytcooking, and @alisoneroman, I love her crispy chocolate cake!

Who would you most like to share a meal with? past, present or fictional? I would love to have a meal with Ina Garten. I think she would be delightful company. My son and I went to see her when she released her last book.

Go-to olive oil? Trader Joe’s premium extra virgin, very good for the price. I love it for everyday.

Ideal grilled cheese? Ham, honeycrisp apples, apple butter and sharp cheddar. It’s great on sourdough.

Favorite pizza topping? Meatballs with dollops of ricotta. I start with a red sauce and mozzarella base.

Where would you want to take a cooking class? A pastry class in Paris.

What’s your Counter Intelligence cooking tip? Always use the best ingredients you find, don’t force things, for example tomatoes in the winter. And please never use pre-grated cheese.

Three things next to your stove? Kosher and sea salt, pepper grinder and extra virgin olive oil. I also keep my butter out except for during summer.

What’s your favorite sports team? Whichever one my son is playing on. He is currently with Nashville Soccer Club in preseason. The season starts at the end of February.

A bed of juicy orange slices topped with lightly dressed arugula and fennel is Susan’s favorite (and quick!) Winter salad

Susan’s Orange Salad with Arugula, Fennel and Shaved Parmesan

• 1-2 minced shallots (to yield 1/4 cup)

• 1/2 tsp kosher salt

• 1/4 cup white balsamic vinegar

• 3 oranges — you can use navels, blood oranges, or cara cara — a mixture of colors is beautiful! 

• flaky sea salt

• 1/3 cup olive oil

• 2 to 4 ounces arugula

• 1 bulb fennel, thinly sliced

• Wedge of Parmigiano Reggiano

• freshly ground black pepper to taste

COMBINE the shallots, salt and vinegar in a small bowl. Set aside while you prepare the oranges. 

SLICE the end off each orange and squeeze the juice from the ends into the bowl with the shallots mixture. Stand each orange on its flat end and slice down around the orange to remove the skin — cut closely to remove any pith. Squeeze the juice from the rinds into the shallot mixture. Turn orange onto its side and cut into 1/2 inch slices. Arrange on platter and sprinkle with sea salt. 

BLEND the olive oil into shallot mixture using a fork. Taste and adjust seasoning, adding more salt if needed. Drizzle a few spoonful over the oranges. 

PLACE the arugula and fennel in a bowl. Drizzle with a few spoonfuls of dressing and toss lightly to coat. Taste and adjust with more dressing or salt to taste. 

PILE the dressed arugula/fennel on top of oranges. Use a vegetable peeler to shave Parmigiano over the top, and grind pepper over salad. 

20 Questions with Cris

Picture this: Fiesta night in the La Vista room at Rick Bayless’s Frontera Grill with margaritas shaking like maracas, guacamole and ceviche expertly crafted to order, corn tortillas pressed and griddled by hand, shrimp and carne asada searing on the grill, and every delicious note choreographed to the Latin beat streaming into the party.

The Fiesta was a celebration for my niece Lindsay’s bachelorette, her mom Tami made the reservations and I was invited! The room filled up with Lindsay’s ‘Squad’ of 20-somethings and suddenly the staff seemed like old friends. Cristian Camacho, Chef de Partie with Frontera, Topolobampo, Xoco, and Bar Sotano in the family of award winning Rick Bayless restaurants, manned the guacamole and ceviche bar. Conversing with each customer, he customized every order. Fruity? Spicy? Extra citrus? Pinch of salt? Maybe some crunch? At the end of the evening, Chef Cris and I exchanged Instagram names and now we can all keep up with @whats.cris.cooking.

What’s your 20 minute recipe? I love making chimichurri salsa, it only takes about 5 minutes unless you make the smoky version. It’s super delicious and simple. I’m a meat person, I love it on carne asada.

What’s your favorite city? Oh that’s a tough one. I’ll say Antigua, Guatemala. My heart is here In Chicago, but every time I visit Guatemala, I have to go to Antigua! All of a sudden, it’s HAPPENING!

What’s your favorite restaurant in your current city? It’s a tie. S.K.Y. is very fantastic and the chef is phenomenal! And Haisous. I love everything about it! I went for Restaurant Week and had one of the best meals there.

Treasured find in the back of your fridge? Mochi ice cream

Who taught you to cook? I got started in the kitchen with my mom when I was about to leave home for college. After two years of college, I dropped out of accounting and went to culinary school. It’s the best decision I made in my whole lifetime. Now I love cooking with my mom, we cook together every holiday. And I finished my degree for a safety net when I graduated from culinary school.

What’s your go-to dish for company? Roasted chicken and carne asada. If I’m cooking with my mom, it’s tacos de lengua. She knows just how to cook it and my friends always ask for more.

What’s on your cooking playlist? Cooking with mom, it’s Latin music, Bachata, Salsa which create a good atmosphere. When I’m at work, rock music gets my adrenaline going for the faster pace.

Coffee, tea, or Kombucha? I LOVE coffee!! I’m a big coffee drinker. A professor introduced me to Counter Culture and Blue Bottle and I got really into it. When I go to Guatemala, I bring back green coffee beans from a farm in Antigua and roast them at home. I do my own cold brew. All the details from grinding to water temp are important.

Most stained cookbook? The Noma Guide to Fermentation by Rene Redzepi. I love fermenting things! I do my own spin off to make it my own.

Indispensable kitchen tool? Chef’s knife, one my parents gave me. It’s a Nakiri with a squared-off blade. It’s easy to sharpen and has a lot of sentimental value.

Staple childhood comfort food? My mom’s enchiladas. She always makes them for my birthday, super simple and comforting.

Three Instagram accounts you follow? Argentinean Chef @francismallman, @nomacph from Copenhagen, and the amazing fish butcher in Australia @mrniland.

Who would you most like to share a meal with? Past, present or fictional? Anthony Bourdain. I relate to him regarding culture and food. We can all be united with food and sharing a meal.

Favorite pizza topping? Pepperoni, simple with thin crust.

Where would you want to take a cooking class? I’d like to spend a day in the kitchen with Josh Niland and learn how to break down a whole fish to maximum potential with minimal waste, a skill I want to acquire. Or go to a cooking school in France with my mom.

What’s your Counter Intelligence cooking tip? Build your guacamole one step at a time, first add lime juice before you mash the avocado, then fold in onion, cilantro and serrano chile. Chop your tomato and drain off the juice, then salt the tomato and fold it in.

Three things next to your stove? Spatula, tongs and whisk.

Have you ever tried a CSA (community supported agriculture)? I subscribed to “Imperfect Produce” when I was in college. It was great! Just because produce isn’t beautiful it still tastes good and can make a great presentation.

What’s your favorite sports team? Chicago Bears and Chicago Bulls. For soccer I go for Barca.

What’s Cris Cooking? I’m kind of crazy when it comes to food. I traveled to St. Louis just to try the BBQ. On a road trip to Atlanta I stopped at three BBQ places on the way and found an outstanding, simple, comforting place with great customer service in the middle of nowhere. I’ve been with Frontera for a year and a half and am constantly working to improve my knife skills, cleanliness and presentation. I’m testing a menu for tasting that will be presented for private events. It’s exciting.

Chef Cris’s Chicken Doblada with Chimichurri Photo credit Christopher Craddock

Cris’s Super Simple Chimichurri Salsa

• 2 cloves garlic, finely minced

• 1/2 cup finely chopped flat leaf parsley

• 2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh marjoram (OR 1 teaspoon dried oregano)

• 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes

• 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

• 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

• salt for tasting

COMBINE the garlic, parsley, marjoram (or oregano), red pepper flakes and red wine vinegar in a glass or stainless steel mixing bowl. Drizzle in the olive oil and whisk to blend. Season to taste with salt. Can be blended in a food processor, but Cris says, ‘it’s prettier on the plate if hand chopped.’

Cris’s Elevated Smoky Chimichurri Salsa

Follow the above recipe and add 1 jalapeno and 2 lemons, cut in quarters, rubbed with oil, and charred on a HOT grill. Mince the jalapeno and juice the lemons. Add to the Chimichurri. Can also add 1 tablespoon cumin seeds for the next level of flavor

20 Questions with Joy

A native of Ventura County, California, Joy Marr now calls Fayette County, West Virginia home. I met Joy when I moved to nearby Charleston as a newlywed in 1992. She was long established by then, working with Class VI River Runners, wearing every hat on an outdoor adventure business roster. We met on the bank of the Gauley River where she prepared a gourmet feast in a makeshift kitchen for the overnight rafting guests at the halfway mark. I was lucky enough to dine al fresco after a thrilling white knuckle day of West Virginia whitewater, ready to jump back in the next day.

Her productivity is impressive: she multitasks with the local foods scene, maintains an active fitness schedule, runs a cooking school and catering company as well as River Rock Retreat, casual accommodations near the rim of the famed New River Gorge. She nurtures everyone in her midst from her fabulous garden and kitchen and is quick to deliver a meal to a friend in need of comfort.

What’s your 20 minute recipe? I call it Salmon with Greens, etc… I keep wild caught salmon filets in my freezer. I season them and cook them frozen with the lid on so it’s almost like poaching. I go roaming in my fridge to get my greens and any extra bits I find. She is giggling. I throw everything in there! I have two skillets going while I unload the dishwasher.

What’s the most challenging place you’ve cooked a meal? Cooking on the Gauley River overnights. I’d light 20 pounds of charcoal in the big grill and cook huge sirloin roasts, whole salmons. We’d have cast iron Dutch ovens full of corn pudding. Then roll out big breakfasts for the rafters in the morning. No running water or electricity. It was pretty outstanding!

What’s your favorite restaurant in your current city? The Station. They’ve really found their footing! Their menu and presentation are great and they have a neighborhood-y vibe.

Treasured find in the back of your fridge? Yuzu Kosho. I got some in South Korea and had to restock it with an online source. It can go everywhere!

Who taught you to cook? I learned from my mother and great grandmother. We always had lots of family over. We would have an assembly line of tamale making. Also my mom showed us every cooking step so we knew how to follow a prep list.

What’s your go-to dish for company? Chicken Marbella from the Silver Palate cookbook

What’s on your cooking playlist? I’ve gotten into the Moody Blues lately, it’s been fun!

Coffee, tea, or Kombucha? All three. I was making my own Kombucha. I love making chai with ‘all the stuff’

Date night—at home? or out? Mostly at home

Most stained cookbook? It’s a 3-way tie: Cake Bible by Rose Levy Beranbaum, New Basics (follow up to the Silver Palate), and Martha Stewart’s big blue book. I have staple recipes from all of these.

Indispensable kitchen tool? A good kitchen knife, it doesn’t have to be expensive.

Staple childhood comfort food? Red posole or menudo. I grew up with huge pots of these on Sundays. I will pull the car over when I travel if I see a place serving it. I am transported to my great grandmother’s house the minute I taste it.

Who would you most like to share a meal with? past, present or fictional? Ruth Reichl. I’ve been reading all her books. She has a great appetite for food. She’s fascinating!

Go-to olive oil? California Olive Ranch. I do a tasting in my cooking classes. People are always so shocked at the difference!

Ideal grilled cheese? Thick cut sourdough spread with mayo on the outside of each slice. Inside spread with mustard butter and slabs of Dubliner cheddar. I cook it slow to melt the fat slices of cheese.

Favorite pizza topping? Black olives, the classic on pizza.

Where would you want to take a cooking class? The Kitchen Porch on Martha’s Vineyard with Jan Buhrman. I met her at a yoga retreat. I love her personality.

What’s your Counter Intelligence cooking tip? Sharpen your knives! I teach some simple techniques in every cooking class. The students are always amazed! It makes your time in the kitchen so much more pleasurable.

Three things next to your stove? JQ Dickinson salt, fresh pepper grinder, and some hot chili pepper olive oil my nephew gave me.

What’s your favorite sports team? L.A. Dodgers, the one sport I enjoy with my dad.

a frozen salmon filet sizzles in minutes with Joy’s smart cooking technique.

Joy’s Salmon with Greens, Etc…

less of a formatted recipe and more of a freestyle: For each serving you will need a spoonful of olive oil, handful of chopped onion or one green onion cut into 1-inch pieces, a clove or two of smashed garlic, 3-4 cups/handfuls of fresh greens (kale, spinach, mixed baby greens), supplement with extra goodies from your fridge, such as a few mushrooms, sprigs of wispy herbs, lemon if you have it, small spoonful of Gochujang for some spice. salmon filet (4 to 6 ounce each), olive oil to film the skillet, small pat of butter, salt & pepper.

HEAT olive oil in two 10-inch skillets over medium heat, one for the greens and one for the salmon. Add the onion/garlic/greens+extras and herbs to the skillet and toss with tongs, season with s&p, squeeze in some lemon and add Gochujang if using. Keep half an eye on this while you get the salmon going in the other skillet. Cook until tender

SPRINKLE the frozen salmon on both sides with s&p and lay it skin (or skinned) side down in the skillet. Smear the salmon with about a teaspoon of soft butter and put the lid on (if your butter is straight out of the fridge, you can grate it with a cheese grater, onto the top of the salmon. Just a bit, makes for a tasty ‘sauce’ as if you butter-poached it).

COOK, covered, for 6-10 minutes, until desired degree of doneness. Lots of variables at play—type of skillet, thickness and how frozen is the fish, every stovetop is different. For the testing, I cooked a whole 12 ounce filet for 10 minutes and think 9 minutes would have been perfect. Serve your perfectly cooked salmon on top of the greens, passing lemon wedges at the table.

20 Questions with Johnny

New-ish to the kitchen, Johnny Golding is my daughter Sara’s boyfriend. Sara and I met him the day she moved into her freshman dorm in college, precisely August 2012. His personal introduction was unforgettable. “Johnny. Johnny from England,” he said as we exchanged hellos, his hand outstretched. I brought a box of individually wrapped espresso blondies from my kitchen to move-in day, offered them around, and made my way back to West Virginia.

Fast forward, Sara’s NYC job moved her temporarily to London the equivalent of five semesters after graduation. She got in touch with Johnny who had moved back to England and college friendship became international romance. When we traveled to London to visit Sara, Johnny was our tour guide, interspersing laughter into all dialog. He revisited the brownies from move-in day!

We always enjoy hosting him in our home and kitchen where he chops like it’s a lifelong skill. In his youth he attended boarding school in England and spent summers and holidays at home with his family in Portugal.

What’s your 20 minute recipe? Cast iron sausage, mushrooms, and kale topped with a poached egg. It’s really perfect for any time of day and you can use that extra bit of cooked sausage or bacon that you’ve got hanging out in the fridge from the weekend. It really feels meaty with the mushrooms. It’s good for when you want to feel healthy, yet it’s also hearty.

What’s your favorite city? LONDON.

What’s your favorite restaurant in your current city? Casse-Croûte in Bermondsey. It’s done by some fancy famous French chefs, a less expensive version of an authentic French meal.

Treasured find in the back of your fridge? Definitely a 2 liter bottle of ice cold semi-skimmed organic milk. I drink too much milk to be dealing with all those hormones. Also it must be noted that I take offense to people keeping their milk on the door of the fridge, too much temperature variability.

Who taught you to cook? Sara taught me. I made cakes with my mum when I was young, but I didn’t really take it seriously until it became ‘a stipulation.’ Sara wouldn’t agree to a date if I didn’t eat vegetables. So vegetables it was. But I’ll never eat cucumber.Never never. A man must have a code.

What’s your go-to dish for company? Beer can chicken. I serve it every time when friends come around. I LOAD it with spices and bake it in the oven.

What’s on your cooking playlist? Leon Bridges

Coffee, tea, or Kombucha? TEA, Irish breakfast, strong brew. Dash of milk. No sugar.

Date night—at home? or out? First pub, then home.

Most stained cookbook? Peter Reinhart’s Artisan Breads Every Day

Indispensable kitchen tool? Dough scrapers. Perfect for everything.

Staple childhood comfort food? There’s two. In England it’s the ‘eggy cup with toast soldiers’ — a semi-soft boiled egg loaded up with butter and lots of pepper and salt, kind of mushed up in a mug and served with sticks of toast. In Portugal it’s Feijoada.

Who would you most like to share a meal with? past, present, or fictional? Randy Moss

Go-to olive oil? I don’t particularly have one. My housemate brought back a tasty one from Lesbos. She’s a chef and I like trying the ones she keeps around.

Best thing you’ve ever eaten in an airport? Chicago style nachos.

How do you like your toast? Blackened, with lots of butter. Anyone who scrapes off the charcoal is a monster.

Ideal grilled cheese? Hands down, sourdough grilled with pimiento cheese.

Favorite pizza topping? fried egg with a runny yolk. Game changer.

Where would you want to take a cooking class? Bread Ahead, specifically their donut class at their cooking school in Borough.

What’s your Counter Intelligence cooking tip? freeze a portion of your bread dough before the second rise. Coat them with neutral oil and freeze them in ziploc bags. Then you can bake off fresh bread any time. Some doughs work better than others. I’ve been experimenting.

Healthy and hearty all in one pan, this quick and delicious dish makes the case for keeping a bit of extra cooked sausage or bacon on hand (pancetta pictured here)

Johnny’s Cast Iron Mushroom-Kale Masterpiece

• cooked bacon, sausage or pancetta, half a palm full

• large handful of sliced mushrooms

• 2 large handfuls of torn up kale, tough stems removed

• 1 tablespoon water

• salt & pepper

• 1 egg, poached to desired doneness

HEAT a small skillet over medium heat and add the already-cooked meat. Stir to heat through and render a bit of fat into the skillet. Removed the meat and set aside.

ADD the mushrooms to the hot skillet, season with some s&p and cook until browned and tender. Remove from the skillet and set aside with the reserved meat.

ADD the kale to the skillet, sprinkle with a good pinch of salt and drizzle with the water. Cover the skillet and steam the kale until tender. As Johnny would say…chuck it all back in to the pan and top it off with the poached egg.

20 Questions with Canette

The kitchen of Canette Liddy is a hive of deliciousness. Her backyard features a wood burning pizza oven that her husband Chris built last summer, so pizzas are the centerpiece of most gatherings. She can cater for 50 at a moment’s notice from her well-stocked pantry. As a newcomer to Baton Rouge, I landed two doors down from Canette and am the regular recipient of her hospitality.

‘Canette, rhymes with Anette,’ she explains. Her name means ‘little duck’ in French and she took me under her wing, first when I moved to this new town and most recently when trauma struck our family. She helps us all stay afloat. While we chatted in her kitchen, she put a pot of water on to boil and quick-chopped some garlic, fresh parsley and reached for her trusty bottle of peperoncino, crushed red chili flakes she brought back from Italy. In about 20 minutes we were twirling noodles and counting our blessings.

What’s your 20 minute recipe? Peperoncino Pasta. Hadn’t really had it until we went to Rome last summer. Now I have a new love of crushed chili flakes. Also my friend Lei, who is a phenomenal cook, makes a noodle dish with Chinese chili oil and it is so delicious! I learned if you have really good ingredients, you don’t need much. Let one shine through.

What’s your favorite city? London! That’s where it all started. That’s where I met Chris

Favorite restaurant in your current city? Cocha, downtown Baton Rouge

Treasured find in the back of your fridge? A wedge of Parmesan. The real stuff with the rind

Who taught you to cook? A combo of my mom Glenda and PBS cooking shows

What’s your go-to dish for company? Pizza! Or Chris’s Aussie Burgers ‘with the lot’

What’s on your cooking playlist? Bossanova

Coffee, tea, or Kombucha? Tea, English breakfast

Date night—at home? or out? mostly at home

Most stained cookbook? It’s a 3-way tie. Jamie Oliver’s Naked Chef and two by Caprial Pence, Caprial’s Cafe and Cooking with Caprial

Indispensable kitchen tool? my chef’s knife. I got a new one that’s handcrafted, American made from New West Knife Works

Staple childhood comfort food? my mom’s broccoli casserole

Who would you most like to share a meal with? past, present or fictional? my mom and dad

Go-to olive oil? California Olive Ranch is my every day

Best thing you’ve ever eaten in an airport? seeded toast in Auckland

Favorite pizza topping? pepperoni. pretty boring. I do judge a pizza place on their Margherita. It’s hard to get that one right

Where would you want to take a cooking class? Milk Street in Boston

What’s your Counter Intelligence cooking tip? get a coffee grinder to use for spices. I grind pepper so it’s always in reach

Three things next to your stove assortment of salts and oils, freshly ground pepper

What’s your favorite sports team? New Orleans Saints

With 20 minutes and a few simple ingredients, Canette’s Peperoncino Pasta is served

Canette’s Peperoncino Pasta

• 1/4 cup olive oil

• 2 cloves garlic, finely minced

• 1 to 3 teaspoons crushed red chili flakes (peperoncino)

• handful of flat leaf parsley, roughly chopped

• 1 pound dried pasta, Canette likes long noodles like spaghetti

• salt for the pasta cooking water

PUT a large pot of water on to boil and salt it so it’s salty like the sea. When the water boils, cook the pasta to ‘al dente’, usually a minute or two less than the package suggests.

HEAT the olive oil In a small skillet over low heat. Add the garlic and swirl the skillet to infuse the oil with the garlic. Add the chili flakes to your taste and remove the skillet from the heat.

DRAIN the pasta, reserving 1/2 cup of the water. Return the pasta to the pot and toss with the garlic-chili oil and chopped parsley. Toss around with tongs and serve in heated bowls.

For a more saucy dish, add some of the reserved pasta water along with the parsley