20 Questions with Galen

The local food scene in Baton Rouge features some devoted young farmers and Galen Iverstine is the meat guy, passionate about feeding the community delicious pasture-raised beef, pork, chicken and turkey. He thinks on his feet, always ready to adapt to any situation. I met Galen the week after I relocated to Louisiana, calling him as a complete stranger to ask about getting involved with flood relief in the Baton Rouge area. He was serving barbecue to the residents in his parents’ neighborhood while they cleaned up from the 2016 flood. I offered that my daughter and I could come out and make pancakes and our friendship was forged.

For this interview, Galen and I met for a cool drink at French Truck Coffee. He had just done a next level hand-washing tutorial with his staff at the butcher shop and met with me before heading home to make dinner for his kids while his wife went to girlfriends’ night out. Each day since, he and his staff have devised and revised plans to continue to serve their loyal customers during this unprecedented time. I’ve stopped by their fan favorite shop each day this week to find them doing brisk business a few customers at a time while also packing bags for home delivery. In a time when hugging isn’t advised, it’s really great to shake the hand that feeds you!

What’s your 20 minute recipe? 20 minutes is the time period I have to cook! Every recipe in my house starts with 1 1/2 cups of Basmati rice. I slice Bavette steak from the shop into really thin strips across the grain, do a quick marinade and stir fry it with vegetables. This one’s my go to and I change it up with different spices

What’s your favorite city? Lahaina, Hawaii on Maui. I worked there for five months when I took a hiatus from school at 21. It was the perfect time to do it. I went back and visited with my wife for our honeymoon.

What’s your favorite restaurant in your current city? This is so hard, I don’t wanna make anybody mad. We always go to Beausoleil. They were my first customer. Service and menu are great. They have great classic cuisine and great cocktails and it’s always well executed.

Treasured find in the back of your fridge? The liquor that’s left from a pickled something. The Cultured Guru pickle brine is really good. It’s fermented so it adds depth and funk to whatever I’m cooking. I like to pour a little in a pot of soup.

Who taught you to cook? My parents taught me the basics and I have learned from a lot of the best home cooks in Baton Rouge.

What’s your go-to dish for company? Spaghetti and meatballs cuz I make a damn good spaghetti and meatballs! I do some bone-in meat that falls off in the red gravy that takes all day to cook. I do the meatballs 1/3 beef, 1/3 pork and 1/3 Italian sausage. Please don’t put sugar in your gravy! I follow it exactly the way my grandmother made it and put a whole carrot in to sweeten the whole pot while it simmers.

What’s on your cooking playlist? Guy Clark.

Coffee, tea, or Kombucha? Coffee. 100 percent! French press. I brew the Parish State of Mind from Titan Coffees. We sell it in the shop.

Date night—at home? or out? Out if we can pull it off. We have designated the first Friday night out with another couple. We go try out the new place in town.

Most stained cookbook? I have a couple of really stained pages in John Folse’s big book. The carrot cake and Gumbo Tips are great. I don’t use a lot of recipes, I’m just looking for guidance.

Indispensable kitchen tool? Chef’s knife, tongs and a good spatula.

Staple childhood comfort food? My grandmother’s roast, rice and gravy. Or her spaghetti and meatballs. If she invited you for dinner you would drop everything and be there in five minutes. She always made this great salad with a minced-to-powder blend of celery, parsley and green onion tossed in. I still make it today.

Go-to olive oil? I like the ones from Red Stick Spice for finishing. Most of my high temp cooking is done with avocado oil. I really like a good butter.

Ideal grilled cheese? The one from Chelsea’s circa 2006.

Who would you most like to share a meal with? past, present or fictional? Thomas Jefferson. He’s an agrarian, so smart. It’s really cool touring Monticello.

How do you like your toast? Medium/just browned with an uncomfortable amount of Kerrygold butter.

Favorite pizza topping? Italian sausage.

What’s your Counter Intelligence cooking tip? Don’t overcomplicate it. The most sustainable way to cook is to buy ingredients you can use in multiple platforms throughout the week.

Three things next to your stove? Salt, spoon rest and a big Boos Block cutting board

What’s your favorite sports team? I ride dirt bikes, that’s my sport. Just started back this year. I do enjoy an LSU baseball game.

Freestyle stir fry! This one features what I had in my produce drawer: mushrooms, red bell pepper, carrot, green onion. Cilantro and broccoli microgreens make a fun and flavorful garnish.

Galen’s Bavette Beef Stir Fry with Basmati Rice

Galen describes the bavette steak as ‘such a great cut of meat that nobody knows about’ and after testing the recipe as he suggested, I’m a believer! I will now be stocking 1 pound bavettes from Iverstine’s Butcher Shop in my freezer. He tweaks the recipe to match the veggies he has on hand and spices the stir fry accordingly. Galen confessed he doesn’t have room for the clutter of kitchen gadgets. I did test this recipe using my birthday gift rice cooker for the rice and I am hooked. The ingredients here are as I tested

• 1 1/2 cups Basmati rice (cooked according to package directions)

• 1 pound bavette steak, frozen/partially thawed and thinly shaved across the grain in diagonal slices

• 1 tablespoon plus 1/4 cup soy sauce, divided use

• 2 fat garlic cloves, minced

• spoonful of hot chili oil or good pinch of crushed red pepper

• 1 tablespoon avocado oil

• 1/2 pound sliced mushrooms

• 1 red bell pepper, cut into thin strips

• 2 carrots peeled and cut julienne (there’s a peeler for this and it’s a great kitchen gadget!)

• 2 green onions, sliced

• chopped fresh cilantro for flavorful garnish

• broccoli microgreens for garnish, optional

START the rice. After it boils, reduce heat to simmer and cover. it will be ready to fork fluff when your stir fry is done. Or let the rice cooker do the work for you.

TOSS the sliced beef with 1 tablespoon soy sauce, the minced garlic and the chili oil or crushed red pepper. Set aside for a few minutes to marinate while you prep the vegetables.

HEAT the oil in a large skillet over medium high heat. Add the beef in a single layer and cook for about a minute, then toss and stir fry another minute or until the meat is mostly browned. Using tongs, remove to a bowl, leaving the juices in the skillet.

ADD the mushrooms to the skillet and cook stirring for a few minutes until just tender, then add the bell pepper and carrot. Cook another minute or three until the bell pepper softens. Add the 1/4 cup soy sauce and scrape the pan to get all the good bits incorporated.

ADD the cooked beef back to the skillet and stir in the green onions.

SERVE over rice, garnish as desired with cilantro and microgreens, more chili oil or crushed red pepper and a squeeze of lime if you like.

20 Questions with Sara

Sara Hamilton is my first born and she had little choice but to be raised on the kitchen counter. Fortunately she took to it like a baby to bathwater. In her youth, her favorite T-shirt was the Life is Good PB&J, so it’s no surprise what she claims as her childhood comfort food. I have the best memories of Sara’s cooking exploits including the time she decided to make homemade pop tarts late one night in middle school. In high school she would kick us out of the kitchen to host her friends for big dinners or cake pop parties. I can still hear the laughter!

When Sara left home for college, she glanced at the stacks of cookbooks in the kitchen and said, ‘I’m going to miss you!’ She wrote about turning her dorm room into a dinner party and worked in a campus after hours cafe, upgrading the standard grilled cheese. A native of West Virginia, Sara also wrote about the official state food the pepperoni roll describing it as infinitely greater than the sum of its parts. Now that we’ve all moved away from West Virginia, it’s a joy to make pepperoni rolls in our home kitchen! Just as we left for Louisiana, Sara graduated from college, moved to New York then London and is now back in New York where the counter space is premium.

What’s your 20 minute recipe? Noodle Bowls with Broccoli and a creamy sesame sauce.

What’s your favorite city? London. Or New Orleans. Two great cities

What’s your favorite restaurant in your current city? That’s so hard! Most recently I went to Win Son, delicious Taiwanese food. It is sooooo good! I had a noodle bowl and a deep fried scallion pancake filled with beef tartare.

Treasured find in the back of your fridge? Harissa. I found some in the back of my fridge the other day and I put it on a bagel with bacon, egg and cheese. It was so good!

Who taught you to cook? YOU! You taught me how to cook! Thank you!

What’s your go-to dish for company? Fancy pasta. A favorite is all’Amatriciana which can even be a 20 minute recipe so you can make it for friends on a weeknight.

What’s on your cooking playlist? Lately I’ve been listening to a lot of Bad Bunny and Remi Wolf.

Coffee, tea, or Kombucha? COFFEE, though I do love tea!

Most stained cookbook? Salt Fat Acid Heat.

Indispensable kitchen tool? Sharp knife or rubber scraper.

Staple childhood comfort food? Peanut butter and jelly, and grilled peanut butter and jelly for special occasions.

Who would you most like to share a meal with? past, present or fictional? Nina Compton. I love her food and it would be really cool to meet her!

Best thing you’ve ever eaten in an airport? I had some really good Turkish ice cream at the airport in Istanbul. It’s not like regular ice cream, it’s almost chewy. It’s really good.

Date night—at home? or out? Cook at home! Definitely! Listen to some music, drink some wine.

Ideal grilled cheese? Ruth Reichl’s grilled cheese. Can we make it?!

How do you like your toast? Very well toasted with lots of butter and salt.

Favorite pizza topping? Pepperoni, weirdly. Even though that is boring. Or caramelized onions.

Where would you want to take a cooking class? Ballymaloe Cooking School in Ireland.

What’s your Counter Intelligence cooking tip? Salt your pasta water really well.

Three things next to your stove? Salt, olive oil…That’s all that will fit on the counter.

Cooking the broccoli right in the pasta pot makes this dish come together quick!

Noodle Bowl with Sesame Dressing

Sara loves this with soba noodles. We’ve made it with ‘what’s in the pantry’ and it’s delicious with any type of cooked al dente long pasta. Couple of keys: Add the broccoli when there’s 4 minutes left on your timer, depending on cooking time for your desired noodle type; and don’t forget to save some pasta cooking water

8 ounces soba or other long noodle

small bunch of broccoli cut into florets

1 cup thin sliced red bell pepper

handful of sliced green onion

handful of rough chopped cilantro

1/4 cup tahini

3 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons rice vinegar

a few drops of sesame oil, to taste

pinch or so of crushed red pepper flakes

lime wedges for serving

BRING a large pot of generously salted water to a boil and cook the noodles according to package directions for al dente. Add the broccoli for the final 4 minutes of cooking time (Angel hair cooks so quick so you actually start the broccoli then add the noodles).

DRAIN the noodles and broccoli, reserving a mugful of cooking water. Transfer to a large serving bowl or back into your pot to toss with the dressing.

MAKE the dressing while the noodles are cooking. In a small bowl, whisk together the tahini, soy sauce, rice vinegar, sesame oil and crushed red pepper flakes.

TOSS the noodles with the dressing, red bell pepper, green onion, and cilantro.

SERVE warm or at room temp with lime wedges and chopsticks if you like.

20 Questions with Nancy

Nancy Bruns relocated to her hometown of Charleston, West Virginia when she and her brother Lewis Payne revitalized their family’s award winning salt business. Breaking ground in 2013 on their 21st Century version of a multigenerational industry, Nancy fully immersed herself in all things salt. We became fast friends the moment Lewis and his wife Paige introduced us at an intimate dinner party at their home. I had the good fortune of being a salt taster early on, before they had coined their name J.Q. Dickinson SaltWorks, and catered their big family feast for their website photo shoot.

Nancy blends her many talents as a formally trained chef and entrepreneur to become a salty success story. Her enthusiastic expansion of the family business earned her the accolade of West Virginia Wonder Woman. When she isn’t at work in Malden, you can find her preparing delicious meals in her kitchen or exploring the food scene outside of West Virginia traveling with her kids.

What’s your 20 minute recipe? Shrimp and sausage skewers with smoked paprika glaze. I think it can come together in about 20 minutes, or to save time you can ditch the skewers and do it as a sheetpan roast.

What’s your favorite city? New York City. I love the eclectic mix of food and the vibrancy of the food scene. I always find something interesting and new. I usually go twice a year, once each for business and pleasure.

What’s your favorite restaurant in your current city? Noah’s Restaurant & Lounge. I love that he’s raising a lot of his vegetables and he’s the one in the kitchen. You can feel the love in the food.

Treasured find in the back of your fridge? a jar of preserved Meyer lemons, always something I keep on hand. I love the flavor! Not as tart as regular lemons and it’s salty which of course I love.

Who taught you to cook? Started with my parents! They always enjoyed cooking together. Some of my fondest family memories are from the kitchen and around the family table. Someone would put the phone receiver in the kitchen drawer so we wouldn’t have any interruptions at dinner. My mom would sign me up for children’s cooking classes and in high school I went to a French cooking series in Washington, D.C. After college, I went to culinary school. I can’t forget Otis! He’s an important mentor as well. I worked for him at his shop Laury’s Gourmet two summers during college.

What’s your go-to dish for company? I love braised dishes! They’re easy to have finished in a warm oven. In the winter I’ll do a braised pork shoulder in Guinness Stout with balsamic vinegar and sour cherries. It’s not a 20 minute recipe. In the summer I like serving al fresco, something off the grill with a big salad.

What’s on your cooking playlist? I love Mumford and Sons, Avici. I love Don McLean’s American Pie.

Coffee, tea, or Kombucha? I’m a coffee drinker. I love coffee! Decaf. People who drink decaf should not be ignored. I love decaf espresso with frothed milk.

Most stained cookbook? Probably my mother’s cookbook Let’s Have An Affair. My next one is New Basics. I use books for inspiration and look at recipes then throw it together to make it my own.

Indispensable kitchen tool? My chef’s knife for sure, and my Peltex whip. It’s great for turning fish and eggs.

Staple childhood comfort food? Eggs & toast. Two softboiled eggs with lots of butter and salt and pepper. It makes me feel good! You’ve gotta get the eggs just right though. I’m a big fan of egg cookery. People take them for granted. When I was a guest on Jeff Shirley’s Three Things, my ‘favorite’ and ‘future’ were all about eggs.

Who would you most like to share a meal with? past, present or fictional? Julia Child. I would want to be in the kitchen with her and then sit down at the table with her. Just the two of us or maybe Paul could come. Can I ask for this to be in France?

Best thing you’ve ever eaten in an airport? In Spain, Iberico ham sandwich on really good crusty bread. I could eat that daily, or three times a day. The Madrid airport. American airports are getting better.

Go-to olive oil? It’s hard to have just one! I love the Villa DiTrapano for finishing and Colavita for everyday.

Ideal grilled cheese? Bread is very important. Sourdough, mix of cheeses. Swiss, Havarti and spread a little goat cheese on there, too. Lots of butter on the bread and griddle until it’s almost charred.

Favorite pizza topping? Prosciutto with arugula.

Where would you want to take a cooking class? I would love to do something in the South of France. If I can dream, I’d look for a five day intensive cooking there. Maybe I’d go with my friend April. (!!!)

What’s your Counter Intelligence cooking tip? Go with your instincts when you’re cooking. It’s okay to mess with a recipe, you don’t have to follow it exactly. This is why I don’t do a lot of baking.

Three things next to your stove? Salt and pepper and olive oil. Yes, of course JQ Dickinson salt and I like Telicherry peppercorns in a grinder.

What’s your favorite sports team? I really like the Green Bay Packers. I love that they’re owned by the fans. I gave my son one share for Christmas. It’s fun to say, ‘hey! I’m part of this team.’

Tossed with a smoked paprika glaze, shrimp, Cajun sausage, peppers and onions roast in a blazing oven for a super delicious weeknight meal. For a dressier presentation, skewer and grill the ingredients for company.

Nancy’s Shrimp and Sausage with Smoked Paprika Glaze

Nancy threads the dressed shrimp, sausage, and vegetables on skewers before cooking and suggests rice as a serving accompaniment. Oven-roasting the ingredients on a sheetpan and serving with fast cooking couscous makes for an easy weeknight meal. I placed my sheetpan on top of my oven’s pizza stone to really get things sizzling. The fresh herbs here remind me it’s time to start a windowsill garden!

For the glaze:

• 1 clove garlic, minced

• 1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves

• 1 1/2 teaspoons smoked paprika

• pinch of crushed red pepper

• pinch of salt

• 2 teaspoons Sherry vinegar

• 1/3 cup olive oil

COMBINE the garlic, thyme, smoked paprika, crushed red pepper, salt, and Sherry vinegar in a small bowl. DRIZZLE the olive oil in slowly while whisking to blend.

For the sheetpan/skewers

• 3/4 pound large raw shrimp, peeled and deveined

• 1/2 pound Andouille sausage, cut into thick coin slices

• 1 medium red bell pepper, cut into 1-inch squares

• 1 small red onion, cut into chunks

• 3 tablespoons chopped Italian parsley for serving

HEAT the oven to 400 and line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper or foil (hello easy cleanup!)

PUT the shrimp in a bowl and toss with about 3 tablespoons of the smoked paprika glaze.

PUT the sausage, bell pepper and onion on the prepared baking sheet, drizzle with about 3 tablespoons of the glaze and toss to coat. Push these ingredients over to cover about 2/3 of the sheetpan to make room for the shrimp.

LAY the shrimp out in a single layer on the other 1/3 of the sheetpan.

ROAST for 8 minutes, then turn the shrimp and roast for 2 minutes until shrimp are just cooked through. Remove the shrimp to a dish and continue roasting the sausage and vegetables until the vegetables are just tender, about 5 minutes.

SERVE a scoop of sausage and vegetables with three or four shrimp, sprinkle with parsley and offer the remaining smoked paprika glaze on the side.

With thanks to Nancy for this versatile recipe loaded with the flavors of Louisiana!

Happy cooking!

20 Questions with Joy

A native of Ventura County, California, Joy Marr now calls Fayette County, West Virginia home. I met Joy when I moved to nearby Charleston as a newlywed in 1992. She was long established by then, working with Class VI River Runners, wearing every hat on an outdoor adventure business roster. We met on the bank of the Gauley River where she prepared a gourmet feast in a makeshift kitchen for the overnight rafting guests at the halfway mark. I was lucky enough to dine al fresco after a thrilling white knuckle day of West Virginia whitewater, ready to jump back in the next day.

Her productivity is impressive: she multitasks with the local foods scene, maintains an active fitness schedule, runs a cooking school and catering company as well as River Rock Retreat, casual accommodations near the rim of the famed New River Gorge. She nurtures everyone in her midst from her fabulous garden and kitchen and is quick to deliver a meal to a friend in need of comfort.

What’s your 20 minute recipe? I call it Salmon with Greens, etc… I keep wild caught salmon filets in my freezer. I season them and cook them frozen with the lid on so it’s almost like poaching. I go roaming in my fridge to get my greens and any extra bits I find. She is giggling. I throw everything in there! I have two skillets going while I unload the dishwasher.

What’s the most challenging place you’ve cooked a meal? Cooking on the Gauley River overnights. I’d light 20 pounds of charcoal in the big grill and cook huge sirloin roasts, whole salmons. We’d have cast iron Dutch ovens full of corn pudding. Then roll out big breakfasts for the rafters in the morning. No running water or electricity. It was pretty outstanding!

What’s your favorite restaurant in your current city? The Station. They’ve really found their footing! Their menu and presentation are great and they have a neighborhood-y vibe.

Treasured find in the back of your fridge? Yuzu Kosho. I got some in South Korea and had to restock it with an online source. It can go everywhere!

Who taught you to cook? I learned from my mother and great grandmother. We always had lots of family over. We would have an assembly line of tamale making. Also my mom showed us every cooking step so we knew how to follow a prep list.

What’s your go-to dish for company? Chicken Marbella from the Silver Palate cookbook

What’s on your cooking playlist? I’ve gotten into the Moody Blues lately, it’s been fun!

Coffee, tea, or Kombucha? All three. I was making my own Kombucha. I love making chai with ‘all the stuff’

Date night—at home? or out? Mostly at home

Most stained cookbook? It’s a 3-way tie: Cake Bible by Rose Levy Beranbaum, New Basics (follow up to the Silver Palate), and Martha Stewart’s big blue book. I have staple recipes from all of these.

Indispensable kitchen tool? A good kitchen knife, it doesn’t have to be expensive.

Staple childhood comfort food? Red posole or menudo. I grew up with huge pots of these on Sundays. I will pull the car over when I travel if I see a place serving it. I am transported to my great grandmother’s house the minute I taste it.

Who would you most like to share a meal with? past, present or fictional? Ruth Reichl. I’ve been reading all her books. She has a great appetite for food. She’s fascinating!

Go-to olive oil? California Olive Ranch. I do a tasting in my cooking classes. People are always so shocked at the difference!

Ideal grilled cheese? Thick cut sourdough spread with mayo on the outside of each slice. Inside spread with mustard butter and slabs of Dubliner cheddar. I cook it slow to melt the fat slices of cheese.

Favorite pizza topping? Black olives, the classic on pizza.

Where would you want to take a cooking class? The Kitchen Porch on Martha’s Vineyard with Jan Buhrman. I met her at a yoga retreat. I love her personality.

What’s your Counter Intelligence cooking tip? Sharpen your knives! I teach some simple techniques in every cooking class. The students are always amazed! It makes your time in the kitchen so much more pleasurable.

Three things next to your stove? JQ Dickinson salt, fresh pepper grinder, and some hot chili pepper olive oil my nephew gave me.

What’s your favorite sports team? L.A. Dodgers, the one sport I enjoy with my dad.

a frozen salmon filet sizzles in minutes with Joy’s smart cooking technique.

Joy’s Salmon with Greens, Etc…

less of a formatted recipe and more of a freestyle: For each serving you will need a spoonful of olive oil, handful of chopped onion or one green onion cut into 1-inch pieces, a clove or two of smashed garlic, 3-4 cups/handfuls of fresh greens (kale, spinach, mixed baby greens), supplement with extra goodies from your fridge, such as a few mushrooms, sprigs of wispy herbs, lemon if you have it, small spoonful of Gochujang for some spice. salmon filet (4 to 6 ounce each), olive oil to film the skillet, small pat of butter, salt & pepper.

HEAT olive oil in two 10-inch skillets over medium heat, one for the greens and one for the salmon. Add the onion/garlic/greens+extras and herbs to the skillet and toss with tongs, season with s&p, squeeze in some lemon and add Gochujang if using. Keep half an eye on this while you get the salmon going in the other skillet. Cook until tender

SPRINKLE the frozen salmon on both sides with s&p and lay it skin (or skinned) side down in the skillet. Smear the salmon with about a teaspoon of soft butter and put the lid on (if your butter is straight out of the fridge, you can grate it with a cheese grater, onto the top of the salmon. Just a bit, makes for a tasty ‘sauce’ as if you butter-poached it).

COOK, covered, for 6-10 minutes, until desired degree of doneness. Lots of variables at play—type of skillet, thickness and how frozen is the fish, every stovetop is different. For the testing, I cooked a whole 12 ounce filet for 10 minutes and think 9 minutes would have been perfect. Serve your perfectly cooked salmon on top of the greens, passing lemon wedges at the table.